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Man Chowder 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001
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Description 

Man Chowder is almost the easiest route off the ledge, and a full on classic. Scramble down left on some large blocks to a belay shared by Man Chowder and Cornered Rats (also great). The route is steeper than it looks. However, with some of the best incut holds on the wall, the pulls are never harder than 5.11+. The two cruxes come pulling over the little overlaps on smallish but very positive edges. The face climbing above the last crux takes a little mental control getting to the anchors. Named following a particularly feisty night by The Great Defoliator.


Protection 

QDs only. A bit less than 90 feet, Man Chowder needs a baker's dozen of QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jul 19, 2008

Awesome route, sustained. classic

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 22, 2009

Couldn't say it better Jay van Sam. It's sad that the only thing that detracts from this route is the anchor placement and the sound of your rope shredding while being lowered. If the anchor was 7ft lower there would be half as much drag and your only missing some 5.8 climbing

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 24, 2009

Monty, you're absolutely right about the anchor. This one is high on the list for an upgrade. I thought that lowering the anchor station to the last bolt below the anchors would be best. Does that sound consistent with your experience? The top anchor may have been drilled in a solo bolting endeavor.

Also, this route yielded one of the biggest trundles ever, a block 12' x 12' x 2' with a mere flick of the crowbar.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 27, 2010

The anchor was lowered 10' to be at the previous final protection bolt on 9/25/2010. Stainless Fixe' rings and quick links on the previous protection bolt were installed. The rope should run cleanly from this anchor point to the ledge.

By Pinklebear
Sep 27, 2010

Thanks, T-Zilla. A killer route, now with even better anchors.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 6, 2012

Excellent pitch. Throws a little bit of everything at you.