Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | P. Gagner & C. Bellizi, 1988 |
Page Views: | 2,093 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
This is a fun, inviting, slightly pumpy route which ascends a few bulging tiers. The route is described as reachy in the guidebook.
Start on slightly loose rock. Clip a bolt. Move up over a set of bulges angling left past a pin. The crux involves a key left side pull near the 3rd bolt. Clip another bolt.
Per Vlad S: the only thing reachy about this climb are its clipping positions. The first as well as the last bolt before the runout are totally off route. I recommend skipping the latter one, since it's only 2 feet above another bolt, and the clipping hold is now gone. Ultimately, that bolt should be moved 3 feet left.
Start on slightly loose rock. Clip a bolt. Move up over a set of bulges angling left past a pin. The crux involves a key left side pull near the 3rd bolt. Clip another bolt.
Per Vlad S: the only thing reachy about this climb are its clipping positions. The first as well as the last bolt before the runout are totally off route. I recommend skipping the latter one, since it's only 2 feet above another bolt, and the clipping hold is now gone. Ultimately, that bolt should be moved 3 feet left.
Location
This is on the left side of the north face of the Discovery Wall.
Per Vlad S: don't pull the rope straight down after leading, since it's impossible to miss the poison oak at the base. It is much safer to for the last person up to follow and rap over to the left.
Per Vlad S: don't pull the rope straight down after leading, since it's impossible to miss the poison oak at the base. It is much safer to for the last person up to follow and rap over to the left.
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