Mama's Boy 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Afternoon sun (west facing) |
| Submitted By: | Lee Jensen on May 21, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: West Face of P.A.'s Mother
1 Pissant 5.10b
2...
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Description You might feel like crying home to momma if you go into this route thinking that it will be a 5.8 cruiser. The first bolt clips easily and then you hit the crux. Fun moves with small crimpers over almost vertical rock make this route a great place to hone your balance technique.
Location Located on the far right of PA's Mother.
Protection Five bolts to a two chain anchor.
The FA authorized that the route be bolted due to the difficultly of protecting the route with gear.
BETA PHOTO: 11 Mama's Boy
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.8+
| Definitely a balancy, technical climb (hmmm... it's weird saying that about a 5.8). There's nothing too terribly difficult on the climb, but you need to hunt around for the holds. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| Seemed a bit easier this time around. Enjoyable climbing. Anyone led it on gear recently? It's 5.8 R and trad in the Ruckman guide. Seems like it'd be fun. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009
| Was glad there was a draw already hanging on the second bolt. Balancy is a good word for this line. |
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Echoing the balancy comments. Stiff for a 5.8. Would be really hard for someone who barely leads 5.8. I actually felt that this was just about as hard as Quality, to the left. Pretty fun, technical, sustained climb. Good change from the jug hauls that so many 5.8 are. |
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 8, 2010
| Awesome sustained, balence-y climb. Highly recommended. |
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| It seemed to me like the crux was from the 1st to the 2nd bolt, and it's a little ways. If you don't feel comfortable with a possible fall onto the belay ledge, then beware. After the 2nd bolt I felt like it eased up considerably. |
By Nathaniel Holt
Jun 13, 2012
| Every time I climb this route from the first to the second bold seems harder than 5.8 and every time it makes me work, maybe that's why I keep going back. |
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