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 ADVANCED
The Blob - Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buissonier T 
Junior T 
Mama Woolsey T 
Papa Woolsey T 
Pete's Handful T 
Wonderful World Of Art, The T 

Mama Woolsey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell, 1965
Page Views: 1,273
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: The Blob - Southeast Face

Description 

Interesting and delicate climbing that's the perfect compliment to Papa Woolsey with all of it's bolts. The hardest moves are at or near protection but it is a little runout. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Just right of Papa Woolsey.

Protection 

Gear to 3" including wires.


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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 20, 2002

For some small degree of security, you can cinch up the wire of a smaller size nut around a downward sloping old rivet right at the crux. Heads up: A fall here has very high ground fall potential.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 7, 2003

Another name for this route was "Effigy", which gives some insight into the route name "Effigy Too".
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Feb 20, 2004

Feels like 5.9 to me.
By Randy
Feb 20, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

This route was actually first done in 1965 (not 1972) by Mark and Beverly Powell. Route was named for Beverly's Mom (Betty Woolsey) who was camping with the Powells that weekend.
By tony grice
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Fun route, tick it if you like a little spice or TR it if you don't.
By ShaunG
From: El Paso
Nov 26, 2009

Don't fall before the first bolt. That's it.
By Richard Shore
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not sure it warrants an R-rating with the right piece of gear (#0 tcu) placed up in the back of an old pin scar just before the crux. This will be just below your feet when making the crux move. It seemed like it would require way more effort to cinch the old stud from a tenuous stance than to simply make the move up to the good bolt, but YMMV. Good fun route.