Mama Told Me Not To Come
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 23 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, 1982 |
Page Views: | 1,804 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This is a thin crack in an obtuse dihedral. You could almost call it a flake, but it is actually more of a dihedral. The rock is a fantastic orange color and if you do this route in the fall you'll get the added benefit of brilliant red leaves on the vines that cover the face to the right.
Climb the crack, using the crack on the face at your own risk, to a ledge. There is a nice variation of moves on this route.
The cons are some sand up high and softer rock than normal. The route seems to protect best with cams, passive gear is trickier. The top anchor situation isn't ideal, you have to build a gear anchor off to the left and try to create a directional for the second. It's really hard to set this route up as a slingshot TR.
Climb the crack, using the crack on the face at your own risk, to a ledge. There is a nice variation of moves on this route.
The cons are some sand up high and softer rock than normal. The route seems to protect best with cams, passive gear is trickier. The top anchor situation isn't ideal, you have to build a gear anchor off to the left and try to create a directional for the second. It's really hard to set this route up as a slingshot TR.
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