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Mama Daucus 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: who knows
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Andrew Hunzicker on May 29, 2013
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun route for the grade, with almost no painful holds or super hard moves. Working this route you get to repeatedly do the lower Aggro Monkey crux which results in finally learning the correct beta and actual enjoyment of the lower roof.

From there, you get a great rest and then up and right for about 20 feet of really fun climbing (11 plus/12a) with ending with a really fun big move off a left gaston to latch the "basketball" hold with your right. The "basketball" has a great curved lip for both hands and you clip here and try to get a quick shake before the crux.

The crux is grabbing poor left hand, setting feet on two bad holds and dyno for a big four finger pocket that is very soft, but hard to hold. If you latch the hold, do the "jump on your kitchen counter top move" to get your left foot on basketball, then balance up and match on a really slipperly sloper. You are standing on a huge foothold so just hold on very gently and gingerly bring right up to good foot and quick pop to good holds. Clip and very fun big moves/big holds to anchor.

I've fallen off this route a lot and its really fun, send or no send.


Location 

agrro gully


Protection 

fixed bolts



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