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The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Dream S 
Barn Dance S 
Big Burly S 
Count Dooku S 
Elephant Man S 
Evil Emperor S 
Force, The S 
Grippy Green S 
It's a Trap! T 
Mama Benson S 
Mind Meld S 
Padawan S 
Phantom Menace S 
Praestantissimum S 
Return of Darth Moll S 
Shanghai S 
Small Fry S 
Stormtrooper T 
Straight Outta Campton S 
Swing Line S 
Techulicious S 
Tusken Raider S 
Wookie Love Nest S 
Young Jedi S 

Mama Benson 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob McFall - 2000
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008

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Mama Benson climbs the left-most line of bolts, be...


The left end of the main Dark Side cave is bounded by a large ramp of sandstone. Several routes start from the top of this ramp, and Mama Benson is the furthest left route beginning from this ramp. The route is a classic endurance fest, with long moves between huge jugs, culminating in long reaches below the anchor. This route can be a good warm-up option, as its not too cruxy, and the hardest moves are near the top. Scrambling up the ramp is a bit of a hassle, and detracts somewhat from an otherwise classic line.


The furthest left route starting from the big ramp, near the left edge of the Dark Side Cave.


Scramble up the ramp, clipping the first bolts of each route as you pass by. You may want to back clean as you go. From the top of the ramp there are 6 bolts & a 2 bolt anchor. 3-4 more bolts can be clipped ascending the ramp. Use a 60m rope to lower off safely.

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