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 ADVANCED
Goldilocks Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Bear T 
Gold Dust S 
Goldielocks S,TR 
Hot Shit TR 
Mama Bear T 
Papa Bear T,TR 
Wolf Crack T,TR 

Mama Bear 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gary Allen, 1977
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 22, 2008

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Tucker pulling hard on the lower side pulls on Mam...

Description 

An excellent technical climb up the broken cracks on the right of the main wall.

Start at the obvious large pinch. Climb up the cracks on a mixture of poor jams and layaways.

Just below the top you can gain a good rest at a hand jam. After the jam push on through the crux moves to the anchors.


Location 

Right side of the steep wall.


Protection 

Wires and cams. The protections if there, but difficult to place securely.



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By Lurker
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Definitely wouldn't give this an R rating, or even a PG13 rating. Gear is plentiful and good.