This route has some great moves. The crux come before the roof. Be prepared for lots of side-pulls.
Just around the corner from Howdy Dude is a face with two crack systems. The crack in the center of the wall is the start and leads to a roof and a small, right-facing dihedral.
top-rope (shares an anchor with Papa Bear)
|By George Heib|
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Really popular routes as they are very short and easily TR'd. This is a nice 5.10b with some cool side pulls and pinches. Watch for the amazing arm jam at the roof it is a killer rest spot.
|By Jonathan Dull|
From: NC High County
May 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
Great climb with some stellar movement. Lead this today and didn't think it was a bad as most people lead me to believe. There are good cam placements up the initial part of the climb just before the roof then you get a textbook .4 or .3 placement ( I placed both just to feel extra safe pulling through the upper section). If you lead solid 5.10 you will be fine. Like many routes at pilot the rock quality is the only thing that has you second guessing your gear, and for good reason, I wouldn't really want to whip on any of the pieces before the .4 . If you want to rack-up you'll need two .75's, .5, 2, .4 or .3 and maybe something for the top, and in that order.