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DescriptionMallorca is the largest of the four Balearic Islands--Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca. The island's mountainous limestone interior is home to many epic sport routes and its craggy coast provides some of the most scenic deep water soloing in the world. Guides and BetaRockfax has a very comprehensive online route database which contains many routes--but few details, and they publish an indispensable climbing guide called simply Mallorca. Additionally, several of the deep water soloing crags of Mallorca are covered in the book Deep Water and in a supplement available for paid download called Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. DWS World also has some useful information on DWS areas in Mallorca. There is another guide called Psicobloc Mallorca written in both Spanish and English which covers both DWS and sport climbing in Mallorca. Getting ThereMallorca is easily accessed via its International Airport in Palma (PMI). There are also regular ferries that travel there from mainland Spain. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mallorca:
Fortuna 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet Cala Barques : Snatch Area
Albahida aka Gubia Normal 5.8 Trad, 8 pitches, 850 feet, Grade II Sa Gubia : Albahida
Coldron 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet Cala Sa Nau : Virgin Area
Estricina 5.9 Sport, 4 pitches, 310 feet Sa Gubia : Paret dels Coloms
Little Fish Direct 5.10a/b TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet Cala Sa Nau : Virgin Area
Asuqui 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Cala Magraner
Bisexual 5.10b/c TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Cala Barques : Metrosexual Area
Comechochos 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Sa Gubia : Paret dels Coloms
Colesterol Party 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cala Santanyi
Intrepido 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Valldemossa : Main area
Featured Route For Mallorca
Albahida aka Gubia Normal 5.8 International : Spain : ... : Albahida
Viewed from a distance or, close up, the distinctive aręte of Albahida just begs to have a classic route on its steep, exposed spine of rock. And...it does! Bonus for modest climbers or those seeking an “escalade plaisir” day that the route is within the means of most abilities.Getting started: locate the base of the ridge. The lower angle ramp leading up to a green bushy stance is the first pitch.Pitch 1: scramble up the low angle ridge aiming for the enclosed ledge between bushes...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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