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Mallorca

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Mallorca 


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Location: 39.5634, 2.9883 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,491
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jun 28, 2009
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Warming up at the Virgin Area of Cala Sa Nau.

Description 

Mallorca is the largest of the four Balearic Islands--Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca. The island's mountainous limestone interior is home to many epic sport routes and its craggy coast provides some of the most scenic deep water soloing in the world.

(I was there for a week and unfortunately won't get a chance to go back for a while. I've tried to only post information about climbs that I led, so obviously there's a lot out there I haven't put online. If you want control of one of the areas I've posted, I'm happy to cede it to you. I hope that the community will help flesh out this area and make it truly useful. -Anthony)


Guides and Beta 

Rockfax has a very comprehensive online route database which contains many routes--but few details, and they publish an indispensable climbing guide called simply Mallorca. Additionally, several of the deep water soloing crags of Mallorca are covered in the book Deep Water and in a supplement available for paid download called Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. DWS World also has some useful information on DWS areas in Mallorca. There is another guide called Psicobloc Mallorca written in both Spanish and English which covers both DWS and sport climbing in Mallorca.

General information on Mallorca can be found on its Wikipedia page.

Lonely Planet publishes a useful Travel Guide to Mallorca and has useful travel information on its website.

Locals report regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car while you are at a crag. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing. I met a climber who saw the aftermath of several car break-ins (smashed glass, travelers crying over the loss of all their pictures...) in broad daylight at a busy beach area. Because he was camping, he was forced to carry everything that he owned where ever he went. Not fun! Plan accordingly.


Getting There 

Mallorca is easily accessed via its International Airport in Palma (PMI). There are also regular ferries that travel there from mainland Spain.


96 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',13],['5.9',11],['5.10',33],['5.11',21],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mallorca:
Fortuna   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Cala Barques : Snatch Area
Coldron   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Cala Sa Nau : Virgin Area
Asuqui   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cala Magraner
Bisexual   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Cala Barques : Metrosexual Area
Comechochos   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Sa Gubia : Paret dels Coloms
Colesterol Party   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Cala Santanyi
Browse More Classics in Mallorca

Featured Route For Mallorca
Start of Lord of the Rings at La Creveta

Lord of the Rings 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall
Note: I did not climb this route. Some people we were climbing with did, and liked it, but the leader was very glad to have brought his rack and said it would have been pretty uncomfortable just on the bolts. I only commented on the route because it is one of the easier lines at the crag, and you might be unpleasantly surprised if you hopped on it expecting a well-protected sport route....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mallorca Slideshow Add Photo
kerplunk
kerplunk
Sa Creueta, Sector Dreta with Porto de Pollenca in the background.
Sa Creueta, Sector Dreta with Porto de Pollenca in...
A satellite image of Mallorca.
BETA PHOTO: A satellite image of Mallorca.
Chris crushing Metrosexual at the <a href='/v/metrosexual-area/106481114'>Metrosexual Area</a> of <a href='/v/cala-barques/106481003'>Cala Barques</a>.
Chris crushing Metrosexual at the Metrosexual Area of...
A DWS cliff across from the bolted routes at Cala Santanyi.
A DWS cliff across from the bolted routes at Cala ...
 La Ley del Deseo:V+,V+,V-,V-,IV,V-, Sa Gubia. Palma de Mallorca in the background.
La Ley del Deseo:V+,V+,V-,V-,IV,V-, Sa Gubia. Pal...
Comments on Mallorca Add Comment
Show which comments
By D. Durrant
Oct 1, 2009

What a perfect place to climb on perfect limestone. We thought we would crag a little and DWS a lot but it was the opposite. The crags were so varied and the views were so wonderful that we just had to check out as many as possible. There are at least 44 crags on the island, not including the dozens of DWS cliffs. The best part of Mallorca was trying to decide where to climb, what beach to visit, what to eat and drink. Climbing is only part of the attraction. Only a small portion of the potential has been developed. As far as the DWS goes, what a blast. Bring or buy a 60 foot piece of rope and tie knots in it to help get out of the water. Most sea cliffs are under cut so you either swim to an exit, which can be far, or use your rope to assist with your climb out of the water. The best time to Psicobloc is mid to late summer as the water is much warmer.

By David Kozak
Apr 28, 2012

Could someone please tell me what the weather is like on Mallorca during the months of December and January? Thx.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Apr 29, 2012

David, please click here.

By D. Durrant
Jun 17, 2012

Let me recommend you find one of the may climbing shops on Mallorca and purchase the guide but the Mallorcan Miquel Riera, it is much more comprehensive than the Rockfax guide.

By MAKB
From: Front Range, CO
Sep 10, 2013

By Couloirman
From: Providence, RI
Jul 6, 2014

Any updates on overall DWS access on the island? Here are the articles I am referring to. Anyone been climbing at the popular DWS areas recently? Are the signs banning climbing still in place? Are people climbing anyway? Such a shame to lose such an amazing place. I went a few years ago and am dying to go back, but not if DWS is banned.

www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68591
www.climbing.co.za/2014/02/update-mallorca-dws-ban-still-pla>>>