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Joel Larner leading Malign
Climb as for Dementia until you reach the small, blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner to a left-facing flake/corner, then up a right-facing corner above the flake to the top. Although this sounds liek a wandering line, it is actually quite direct, and little drag will result if you use a few 2-foot runners.
Standard light rack up to 3". THe line is reasonably easy to protect.
BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
BETA PHOTO: Not sure what route the two bolts are for.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at belayer from halfway up Malign.
BETA PHOTO: Last 15 feet on Malign.
BETA PHOTO: First piece (tricam) protecting short traverse bef...
Near the bottom.
|By shad O'Neel|
Nov 11, 2003
regardless of ratings, i think this climb is [trickier] than its 5.8 [neighbor, Grins]. its got some interesting moves and [isn't] that [wandering], great gear the whole way except maybe right off the ground depending how you start. [I'd] vote for 1.5 stars, its worth doing.
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
May 27, 2005
An interesting and varied climb. My wife thought it was tricky and didn't like it, but its puzzling nature is what makes it fun. A tallented newby climber cruised up this route with not much problem and came down shaking with terror. "That's _really_ high up there!" she commented. Amen.
If you rig a TR anchor from the small ledge at the top of Night Cap, you'll be looking at a long swing around some sharp edges. Dropping an anchor over the ledge about 8' to climber's right of Night Cap is probably optimal. From the ground, I can see a set of chains that might work, but I'll be damned if I can find them up top! Knowing Happy Hour, it's probably a mid-5th class scramble just to get there. Let us all remember the lesson of Mike Sofranko and Happy Hour... :-(
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 18, 2005
This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun.
It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. You can see the plaque for Mike from the anchor stance, and comfortably escape off to the top whey you want to pull the anchor later. Rope then comes down directly between Malign and Nightcap. At the anchor I was a little ways past half rope. Pulling all my pro on the belay down to let the rope hang straight instead of curving right in the route freed up enough rope to make it back to the ground. As you then climb to the right near the top, flick the rope over the rock and you're fine. I also TR'd Nightcap off this anchor and it was fine.
Lots of excellent opportunities for Pro on this route. A 5.7 lead will tend to put in a lot of pro since it is sustained 5.7, but be careful of the resultant rope drag due to all that pro and the right wandering nature of the route.
DON'T use the chains above "Thrill of the Chase" for this route. They are way to far left. You'll be looking at a huge swing and some good non-equalized side loading on the chains.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2005
This route is a lot more fun than it looks from below. Nice variety, good length, takes good pro but requires some thoughtful footwork to get comfortable stances. A great lead for the grade if at the crag. imho, grins has a harder crux.
|By Dmitriy Zinchenko|
Oct 19, 2005
This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 camalot but since the route is a bit on thelong side for HappyHour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should you need to share it.
|By Kevin Craig|
Aug 15, 2006
Not sure about the "sustained" comment. Sure, many of the moves are 5.7, but there are also good rests after every 3-4 (maybe 5) moves (or maybe I'm just lazier/better at finding rests than many) ;^) There's a short OW about half way up. There's good gear below this, and a double length sling can be used to sling a chockstone near the end of the OW, but it's a bit strenuous to get in place. All-in-all a good, well-protected climb, if you're creative.
|By Matt Gates|
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Nov 19, 2006
I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO.
The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2011
I found this route lots of fun. I'm a new trad leader, and found it easy to protect, with good moves, and nice and long. Don't be fooled by D'Antonio's single star. This is good!
For pro, bring single and double-length slings, as there are quite a few good spots for them during the climb, as well as at the top for a bomber anchor.
If you're looking for something a bit spicier, you can traverse climber's left about 15 meters and do an easy down-climb to the chains above Thrill of the Chase. Good TR. Use slings to protect the traverse.