Malidea 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Skyeler Congdon, Julian Poush Spring 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jul 27, 2010 |
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When it still seemed like a good idea...
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Description P1: Starts out in a left facing dihedral formed by a massive flake. Climb offwidth to chimney until you are able to stand on top of flake. 5.9 90 feet.
P2. Climb straight up finger splitter to a right trending traverse under a roof. Then go straight up through two steep wide bulges in a right facing mini dihedral. The dihedral turns into a splitter upon passing the second bulge. Climb easier ground to the mini summit of Sunflower Tower. 5.11a 80 feet.
P3. Climb the last pitch of the East Face of Sunflower Tower; if you want to top out. 5.8 50 feet.
Location This route is located on Sun Flower Tower, 100 yards to the left of the East Face.
Rappel the East Face.
Protection Double set of cams from .3 Camalot to #5 Camalot. 1 #6 Camalot. Optional Big Bros for first pitch. 3-5 Single length runners, two cordelettes.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.11- R
| This route is R rated, in my opinion, and should only be attempted by chossophiles who love to trundle more than they love to climb splitters.
Two stars? You made me promise never to even add this route to the database...I suppose time heals all wounds.
If anyone actually wants the second ascent of this, don't try it on a weekend. There's still plenty of loose rock on the second pitch and you'll definitely send shit down to the base area. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Aug 24, 2010
| Jeez I'd love to, but I gotta wash the car... |
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