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Begin with easy climbing up a slab to reach the overhanging headwall. Take a deep breath, shake, chalk, and pull on slopers, side pulls, and the occasional jug for 30 feet of sustained pumpy climbing. A surprise move awaits before the chains.
Starts just right of Through the Looking Glass.
Top of Malice
Malice is the line up the center.
Merlin in the meat of it.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Great climb with truely a unique and different upper section. The rib section thru the crux is a very cool feature. The bottom portion along with the large block detracts enough that it isn't four stars to me though. Probably on the harder side of 12c.