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Malibu Creek State Park

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Century Lake Area 
Crags Rd. Crag's 
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Wave Wall, The 

Malibu Creek State Park  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 900'
Location: 34.0961, -118.731 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 368,672
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006  with updates from Benjamin Chapman
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Description 

Malibu Creek State Park is a state park established in 1974 to preserve the Malibu Creek canyon in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Los Angeles. The park encompasses 8,215 acres and offers a wide variety of quality sport climbing and developed bouldering, as well as, excellent top-rope routes on the Planet of the Apes Wall. The Park offers over 100 bolted sport climbs, ranging from 5.5 - 5.14, on steep pocketed volcanic rock. While climbing is extremely popular at Malibu Creek State Park, we share this popular destination with hikers, swimmers, mountain bikers, and a variety of other users. Malibu Creek State Park can have a very "urban" atmosphere, especially near the Rock Pool.

Park is open from sunrise to sunset; no dogs are allowed.

Getting There 

The park is located four miles south of Highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road. There is a $12 fee for parking within the Park, but a free alternative exists by turning right (west) on Mulholland Hwy from Las Virgenes Road and parking on either side of the highway where the Grasslands Trail cuts through the Park. Due to the quality of the fire roads that traverse the park the approach is straightforward, especially via mountain bike.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.0 miles from here

99 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',9],['5.9',12],['5.10',31],['5.11',29],['5.12',10],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Malibu Creek State Park:
Chopping Block   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Kathmandu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Ghetto Wall
Gorgeous   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Mt. Gorgeous
Guerilla Drilla   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Power Station   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Century Lake Area : The Power Wall
The Third Degree   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Family Jewel   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mt. Gorgeous
Rolling Blackout   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Century Lake Area : The Power Wall
Delicious   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Mt. Gorgeous
Johnny Can't Lead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Ghetto Wall
Mr. Big   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 35'   Stumbling Blocks
Planet of the Apes   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 70'   Planet of the Apes Wall
Marauding Monkeys   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Mt. Gorgeous
Luscious   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 60'   Mt. Gorgeous
Letterbox   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 70'   Planet of the Apes Wall
The Drifter   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Century Lake Area : Drifter Wall
Guerilla Warfare   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Planet of the Apes Wall
Urban Struggle   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Ghetto Wall
Ghetto Blaster   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ghetto Wall
Browse More Classics in Malibu Creek State Park

Featured Route For Malibu Creek State Park
 mike newheart climbing his first "HeadOlettu...

head O Lettuce 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : iceberg boulder
left most route from the cave. climb up the ramp both sides are on. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Malibu Creek State Park
Photos of Malibu Creek State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Creek Traverse
Creek Traverse
If it's not diapers  or plastic bags, it's used wa...
If it's not diapers or plastic bags, it's used wa...
Chuck Brainard traversing over pond
Chuck Brainard traversing over pond
A very tiny, juvenile Horned Lizard, spotted near ...
A very tiny, juvenile Horned Lizard, spotted near ...
Towards the dam
Towards the dam
Jeese Groves (jumping) and Andy Patterson escape t...
Jeese Groves (jumping) and Andy Patterson escape t...
peekaboo
peekaboo
Spring flowers
Spring flowers
malibu creek approach
malibu creek approach
Traverse at the Rock Pool
Traverse at the Rock Pool
on the way to ghetto wall
on the way to ghetto wall
Here is the second traverse across from the Ghetto...
Here is the second traverse across from the Ghetto...
just another traversing shot, plus swimmers 05/30/...
just another traversing shot, plus swimmers 05/30/...
Trash from the 3rd Annual Malibu Creek Adopt-A-Cra...
Trash from the 3rd Annual Malibu Creek Adopt-A-Cra...
Trash from the 2nd annual Adopt-A-Crag at Malibu C...
Trash from the 2nd annual Adopt-A-Crag at Malibu C...
Deer, in the morning.
Deer, in the morning.
Back way to The Power Wall
Back way to The Power Wall
A Park user enjoying the solitude.
A Park user enjoying the solitude.
malibu creek traverse
malibu creek traverse
Joe. Drifter (12A)
Joe. Drifter (12A)
Justin on Gorgeous (10a) at Mount Gorgeous
Justin on Gorgeous (10a) at Mount Gorgeous
The hike from the Rock Pool back to Mulholland Dr
The hike from the Rock Pool back to Mulholland Dr
malibu creek
malibu creek
Casey on Letterbox (11b/c) at Malibu Creek behind ...
Casey on Letterbox (11b/c) at Malibu Creek behind ...

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Malibu Creek State Park Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2014
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Feb 19, 2007
The water was really high when I was there making it impossible to get to the upper canyon. The only wall that was accessible was the Planet of the Apes wall. Had a great time, though. Such a beautiful place to climb I will definitely be going here again.

I found the directions to the crag were pretty vague though, so I will give a stab at it.
Once you are in the park, there are two parking lots, park in the second one. If you keep going you will go around a bend into the campgrounds (20$ a night for tent camping, 50$ for RV's for all you wimps). From the second parking lot cross the paved street drop onto the road that crosses a creek it is paved for the first 200 feet or so then turns to dirt road. Keep going down the dirt road. You will see a fork on your left, don't go this way keep right. There is another fork in the road this time stay to the left. You will be walking along the river under a bunch of full oaks. After walking for a minute or two a bridge will come into view that crosses the river. There is a rather large white house on the other side of the river. From here you can see the large rock formations in the canyon to the Northwest. I forget exactly where the foot path is but it heads STRAIGHT for the bridge, once at the bridge you will see a path to your right (north) follow that path past a few park benches it will drop down to the river go around a bend in the river and there is the first rock formation(planet of the apes) To get to the rest of the routes cross the river, and traverse along the wall above the water. from here I do not know since the water was way to high and the traverse was under water.
By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Sep 24, 2009
Several weekends ago friends and I made it to the Ghetto Wall by doing a lot of backpack tossing and swimming. Is there a dry way from where the path hits the big swimming hole to the Ghetto Wall?
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 9, 2009
Yes. You traverse on the South(?) side to get to Stumbling Blocks. Then walk on the south side some more till you can hop to a boulder in the water (right after the cave on the north side and before Ghetto Wall) and traverse the north side then walk across to Ghetto wall. The north side traverse is slightly more sustained than the first traverse. Staying higher seems to be easier, but i would be wary of falling because there are some rocks at the base under the water.

EDIT: I think there is a picture on here of the second traverse.
By Slater
Apr 11, 2010
NEW ROUTES near Guerrilla Drilla-

Just left of The Third Degree (shares start?) is a 5.10+/.11a looking route to new anchors. Anyone have any info? Name?

ALSO - With Guerrilla Drilla at your back, by the tree there is a 5.6 4 bolt route on the right of this rock, and down below (steep start) there is a 9 bolt 5.9+ route that goes up to the roof by the tree and then up the arete (just left of the new 5.6). Can anyone pass on some info? Names? Confirm ratings?

ALSO on right side of Mt. Gorgeous gully, below Toddler Terrace there are two new long slab routes (both around 5.7+) with 7bolts and 6 bolts (l to r). Info please... Thanks!
-Slater
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 4, 2010
Those 2 long slab routes are gone! blots and anchors have been pulled out.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
Words of advice for climbers here and everywhere else. PLEASE PLEASE put your own draws up top if you are planning on top roping. A lot of the anchors here are open shuts or fixed caribiners so it is VERY temping to just clip into them, get lowered down, and use them for TR for rest of your group. So PLEASE use your own quick draws to TR the climbs! Also please rappel as much as possible to also prevent wear on the anchors. THANKS!
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
May 30, 2011
I just want to say, first of all, is that this place is awesome. You LA kids are super lucky to have such a perfect warm summer day sport crag. The creek and fairly unique way of accessing a lot of the climbs make this crag a blast in the socal climate.The routes were awesome steep sport lines. Having been to New Jack City once I still think this place reminds me most of climbing in Red River Gorge ( where I am from) where NJC was just mostly ugly.

Now I only need someone to open up a Miguels nearby.....oh and octuple the amounts of routes here.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jun 5, 2011
Also, how can this place be so popular and still have such outdated information. Hey Regulars! post some photos and and better beta photos. Get all the new route information on the database!
By AlexK
Jan 19, 2012
I always tell newcomers: everything's fun in malibu creek. From easy warmups to pumpy overhangs, you'll have a good time.
By Jen Levine
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 14, 2012
Where do climbers camp around here? I looked up Malibu Creek State Park and it looks like they only have 5 very expensive campsites that are always booked on Saturdays making a weekend stay impossible. Help!!! Also, what's the best guidebook?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 27, 2013
While litter is nothing new at Malibu Creek State Park, leaving your litter, along with messages in chalk, and your name on a receipt with the evidence is a novel approach.

Same story, different day.
Same story, different day.




Moises Betancourt
Moises Betancourt
By jay123
Jun 27, 2013
looks like this worthless Moises Betancourt piece of trash is a student and had at lease linked account. Lets let future employers know the kind of lazy bum he is.
By Thomas Ferrer
Jul 3, 2013
was at the park yesterday evening and was really impressed with the sport climbing. while my buddy and i were finding routes we couldn't help but notice all the amazing 15 plus foot boulders.

is there a established guide book for the boulders in the park?

If anyone has any more information please contact me here or via email

thomasrferrer@gmail.com
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 5, 2013
Thomas....try locating a copy of Sport Climbing in the Santa Monica Mtns -3rd edition by Louie Anderson, at REI, A-16, or amazon.com? It has a section on established boulder problems in the park.
By Slater
Sep 20, 2013
For what it is worth... my Southern California Rock Climbing guidebook has 2 routes listed in it on page 207: Scratchy Beard 5.8 and Slip N Slide 5.8. Apparently these routes were put up violating some basic common sense practices and were removed. Please respect the wishes of the locals and don't take it upon yourself to re-establish these routes. I in no way intended to legitimize these routes, but was simply recording what I saw and climbed. Locals trump guidebooks. Climb on, Tom
By kipp.fo
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 21, 2013
The trash all around the park is pretty awful. Please do the community a favor and pick up some items and throw them away-a little goes a long way if everyone pitches in.

And DON'T smoke in the park..it is incredibly dry I was amazed at the number of climbers smoking and then dropping the butts in the dry bushes!
By Ian Gargle
Oct 14, 2013
I lost a tiny blue scarpa velcro shoe at the creek this weekend. Its probably somewhere near ghetto blaster. If anyone finds it please contact me on here. Thanks a lot.
By ryan mattock
Nov 10, 2013
Gentle Ben chapman please leave the kid's alone. Moises Betancourt should consider deformation of character.
considered when u do pic's like yours.
just pic up the trash roll ur eyes and say hope they learn one day!!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 8, 2014
Ryan....you're I-L-L-I-T-E-R-A-T-E!!! That's "Defamation of Character." Try taking a remedial English course.
By Kat Colella
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jun 9, 2014
My husband and I went to Malibu Creek this past weekend (mainly to camp and stay the night, but we got one quick route in). The $45 you spend on a tent camp site might as well go towards a hotel, seeing all you get for $45 is a 50/50 chance at a shaded site (the trees are generous if you happen to be assigned such a site), and many of the sites are sloped--and unless you bring your own shovel, you're stuck with camping on a hill. Did I mention the loud neighbors who are prone to blaring their music from their car stereos, running their generators till 11pm, and constantly locking and unlocking their vehicles (urbanites who, granted, have probably not been taught camping etiquette).

When you do head out to the climbing area proper, be sure to bring gloves and a trash bag--you could pack out a 30L bag of garbage. Don't hike out barefooted; watch for glass shards. Be prepared to have to yell to your climbing parter in order to communicate; not due to wind, but due to the whooping, hollering, and screams of the locals enjoying the swimming hole. Most of the accessible rock under 10ft high has graffiti sprayed across what would have been quite beautiful rock; eye-sores galore.

Pumpy, juggy, overhanging, fun routes... but with all the other issues, I am not sure it is worth the trouble.

Trad climbers: stay away!! I heard the words, "Why aren't there bolts on this crack? It would make such a sick route if it were bolted!" come out of a "local climber's" mouth. John Sherman, where are you??
By Wil Sterner
From: Topanga, California
Jun 13, 2014
I know Moises personally. He would never intentionally litter and he doesn't deserve to have his name posted to the Internet for others to shame.
By Ally McBeal
Aug 22, 2014
"EVIDENCE TO THE CONTRARY." The receipt and the chalk say otherwise. Very tough to unintentionally write that word in chalk.