|Malibu Creek State Park
Sport climbing area with a number of excellent steep routes. Few routes below 5.10. Three main areas: Planet of the Apes Wall (good for top roping), the Ghetto Wall (steep cave-like climbs) and the Mash Boulder.
Park is open 8AM to sunset; no dogs. Parking fee (although free parking is available with a longer approach hike).
This area is located in Malibu Creek State Park off of the 101 Fwy via Las Virgenes Rd (b/n the 101 Fwy and the PCH on Las Virgenes), [ed. about 35 miles west of downtown Los Angeles].
98 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',6]
Browse More Classics in Malibu Creek State Park
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Malibu Creek State Park:
Featured Route For Malibu Creek State Park
Marauding Monkeys 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c CA
: Los Angeles County
: ... : Mt. Gorgeous
Sharing the first 4 bolts of Delicious the route heads up easy slab to a big hueco. Then it starts heading right over a bulge to a big hole (it seems that there is possible an owl living here at the moment). Rest here for the crux is next followed by an easy but exposed finish to chains. Route probably gets its 11a rating for the pure enduro fest required to send. The route sees a lot of sun and can be brutal hot during the summer when shaded areas are more comfortable. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
News and Events For Malibu Creek State Park
Jeese Groves (jumping) and Andy Patterson escape t...
A very tiny, juvenile Horned Lizard, spotted near ...
Chuck Brainard traversing over pond
Towards the dam
just another traversing shot, plus swimmers 05/30/...
Trash from the 2nd annual Adopt-A-Crag at Malibu C...
Back way to The Power Wall
malibu creek traverse
malibu creek approach
Trash from the 3rd Annual Malibu Creek Adopt-A-Cra...
on the way to ghetto wall
|Comments on Malibu Creek State Park
|By Isaac T.|
From: Rockville, MD
Feb 19, 2007
The water was really high when I was there making it impossible to get to the upper canyon. The only wall that was accessible was the Planet of the Apes wall. Had a great time, though. Such a beautiful place to climb I will definitely be going here again.
I found the directions to the crag were pretty vague though, so I will give a stab at it.
Once you are in the park, there are two parking lots, park in the second one. If you keep going you will go around a bend into the campgrounds (20$ a night for tent camping, 50$ for RV's for all you wimps). From the second parking lot cross the paved street drop onto the road that crosses a creek it is paved for the first 200 feet or so then turns to dirt road. Keep going down the dirt road. You will see a fork on your left, don't go this way keep right. There is another fork in the road this time stay to the left. You will be walking along the river under a bunch of full oaks. After walking for a minute or two a bridge will come into view that crosses the river. There is a rather large white house on the other side of the river. From here you can see the large rock formations in the canyon to the Northwest. I forget exactly where the foot path is but it heads STRAIGHT for the bridge, once at the bridge you will see a path to your right (north) follow that path past a few park benches it will drop down to the river go around a bend in the river and there is the first rock formation(planet of the apes) To get to the rest of the routes cross the river, and traverse along the wall above the water. from here I do not know since the water was way to high and the traverse was under water.
From: Denver, CO
Sep 24, 2009
Several weekends ago friends and I made it to the Ghetto Wall by doing a lot of backpack tossing and swimming. Is there a dry way from where the path hits the big swimming hole to the Ghetto Wall?
|By Rob Gordon|
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 9, 2009
Yes. You traverse on the South(?) side to get to Stumbling Blocks. Then walk on the south side some more till you can hop to a boulder in the water (right after the cave on the north side and before Ghetto Wall) and traverse the north side then walk across to Ghetto wall. The north side traverse is slightly more sustained than the first traverse. Staying higher seems to be easier, but i would be wary of falling because there are some rocks at the base under the water.
EDIT: I think there is a picture on here of the second traverse.
Apr 11, 2010
NEW ROUTES near Guerrilla Drilla-
Just left of The Third Degree (shares start?) is a 5.10+/.11a looking route to new anchors. Anyone have any info? Name?
ALSO - With Guerrilla Drilla at your back, by the tree there is a 5.6 4 bolt route on the right of this rock, and down below (steep start) there is a 9 bolt 5.9+ route that goes up to the roof by the tree and then up the arete (just left of the new 5.6). Can anyone pass on some info? Names? Confirm ratings?
ALSO on right side of Mt. Gorgeous gully, below Toddler Terrace there are two new long slab routes (both around 5.7+) with 7bolts and 6 bolts (l to r). Info please... Thanks!
|By Tristan B|
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 4, 2010
Those 2 long slab routes are gone! blots and anchors have been pulled out.
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 28, 2011
Words of advice for climbers here and everywhere else. PLEASE PLEASE put your own draws up top if you are planning on top roping. A lot of the anchors here are open shuts or fixed caribiners so it is VERY temping to just clip into them, get lowered down, and use them for TR for rest of your group. So PLEASE use your own quick draws to TR the climbs! Also please rappel as much as possible to also prevent wear on the anchors. THANKS!
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
May 30, 2011
I just want to say, first of all, is that this place is awesome. You LA kids are super lucky to have such a perfect warm summer day sport crag. The creek and fairly unique way of accessing a lot of the climbs make this crag a blast in the socal climate.The routes were awesome steep sport lines. Having been to New Jack City once I still think this place reminds me most of climbing in Red River Gorge ( where I am from) where NJC was just mostly ugly.
Now I only need someone to open up a Miguels nearby.....oh and octuple the amounts of routes here.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Jun 5, 2011
Also, how can this place be so popular and still have such outdated information. Hey Regulars! post some photos and and better beta photos. Get all the new route information on the database!
Jan 19, 2012
I always tell newcomers: everything's fun in malibu creek. From easy warmups to pumpy overhangs, you'll have a good time.
|By Jen Levine|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 14, 2012
Where do climbers camp around here? I looked up Malibu Creek State Park and it looks like they only have 5 very expensive campsites that are always booked on Saturdays making a weekend stay impossible. Help!!! Also, what's the best guidebook?
|By Benjamin Chapman|
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 27, 2013
While litter is nothing new at Malibu Creek State Park, leaving your litter, along with messages in chalk, and your name on a receipt with the evidence is a novel approach.
Jun 27, 2013
looks like this worthless Moises Betancourt piece of trash is a student and had at lease linked account. Lets let future employers know the kind of lazy bum he is.
|By Thomas Ferrer|
Jul 3, 2013
was at the park yesterday evening and was really impressed with the sport climbing. while my buddy and i were finding routes we couldn't help but notice all the amazing 15 plus foot boulders.
is there a established guide book for the boulders in the park?
If anyone has any more information please contact me here or via email
|By Benjamin Chapman|
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 5, 2013
Thomas....try locating a copy of Sport Climbing in the Santa Monica Mtns -3rd edition by Louie Anderson, at REI, A-16, or Amazon.com? It has a section on established boulder problems in the park.
Sep 20, 2013
For what it is worth... my Southern California Rock Climbing guidebook has 2 routes listed in it on page 207: Scratchy Beard 5.8 and Slip N Slide 5.8. Apparently these routes were put up violating some basic common sense practices and were removed. Please respect the wishes of the locals and don't take it upon yourself to re-establish these routes. I in no way intended to legitimize these routes, but was simply recording what I saw and climbed. Locals trump guidebooks. Climb on, Tom
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 21, 2013
The trash all around the park is pretty awful. Please do the community a favor and pick up some items and throw them away-a little goes a long way if everyone pitches in.
And DON'T smoke in the park..it is incredibly dry I was amazed at the number of climbers smoking and then dropping the butts in the dry bushes!
|By Ian Gargle|
Oct 14, 2013
I lost a tiny blue scarpa velcro shoe at the creek this weekend. Its probably somewhere near ghetto blaster. If anyone finds it please contact me on here. Thanks a lot.
|By ryan mattock|
Nov 10, 2013
Gentle Ben chapman please leave the kid's alone. Moises Betancourt should consider deformation of character.
considered when u do pic's like yours.
just pic up the trash roll ur eyes and say hope they learn one day!!