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Malcolm's Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Malcolm Jolly and Dick Richardson
Season: spring and fall are the best times
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: urs on Aug 14, 2008

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Description 

Malcolm route is a good route to warm up on and get a feel for the area. A fun start with little pro (optional thin piece) leads to a well protected fun slab route. Even though the route isn't a super classic it is probally climbed more than any other route.

Location 

From Gasoline alley you turn a corner And there is a giant slab. start at the very edge of the right arete and traverse left into the face. The bolts just to the right are sleeper 5.10c.

Protection 

You can do these with only 2 quickdraws and some stuff for the anchor if you don't mind having a pretty big run out. Otherwise bring some small stuff for the bottom part.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Apr 20, 2014

There have been modern (4/19/14) bolts retrofitted to this route. There are modern 3/8ths in anchors added as well. Now you need 3 quickdraws and some thin nuts/cams in between for this route. It's run out to modern standards but to Toulumne standards is acceptable. The chain and links at the top are OK too.