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Routes in Waterfall Canyon
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Malan roof T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Malan's Waterfall WI5 R |
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Malans Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Greg Lowe, 1971 |
| Page Views: | 4,626 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Stymingersfink on Dec 24, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Two Options, both entail a 45-50min approach.
Option 1:
P1:(WI4+) Climb the steep but steppy right side to a sheltered ledge belay with a slung tree, about 150' up.
P2:(WI5)Continue up the right side to a 45' column surrounded by cauliflower ice, above here one may find a pin anchor to rap from, or continue up the next curtain to a pin or screw anchor at the frozen pool. Approx. 190'
Option 2:
P1:(WI5)Climb the steeper (and often thinner) left side, belaying from screws in an icy cave 180' from the ground.
P2: (WI5)Leave the belay, traverse right about 15-20', then up the steep pillar presenting itself to you.
If you will be rapping off, step right and downclimb a short way to the pin anchor mentioned in option 1 above.
If you will be walking off, continue up the next shorter pillar to the frozen pool.
BOTH OPTIONS:
P3: (WI3)Solo (or rope up, whatever floats your boat) a 50' section of WI3 to gain the gully above. To walk off, continue up the drainage a bit, then gain the ridgeline directly east. The trail drops steeply down to the original canyon you began in, but farther up from where your packs will be.
Option 1:
P1:(WI4+) Climb the steep but steppy right side to a sheltered ledge belay with a slung tree, about 150' up.
P2:(WI5)Continue up the right side to a 45' column surrounded by cauliflower ice, above here one may find a pin anchor to rap from, or continue up the next curtain to a pin or screw anchor at the frozen pool. Approx. 190'
Option 2:
P1:(WI5)Climb the steeper (and often thinner) left side, belaying from screws in an icy cave 180' from the ground.
P2: (WI5)Leave the belay, traverse right about 15-20', then up the steep pillar presenting itself to you.
If you will be rapping off, step right and downclimb a short way to the pin anchor mentioned in option 1 above.
If you will be walking off, continue up the next shorter pillar to the frozen pool.
BOTH OPTIONS:
P3: (WI3)Solo (or rope up, whatever floats your boat) a 50' section of WI3 to gain the gully above. To walk off, continue up the drainage a bit, then gain the ridgeline directly east. The trail drops steeply down to the original canyon you began in, but farther up from where your packs will be.
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