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Start up some slick-looking rock with good pockets to a high first clip below a huge, white horn. Pull on some excrement-encrusted, huge jugs past a couple more bolts on steepening terrain to a very positive jug between the fourth and fifth bolts. Cop an awkward rest here and follow the handrail on the left to a reachy clip for the fifth bolt. Finish through seriously excrement-encrusted terrain to shared anchors with the route to the right, "Super Guide".
This route gets two stars in the Handren guide but with mandatory usage of extremely fowl-smelling excrement-encrusted holds I can't be so generous with the stars. It's too bad because it is really fun climbing on great jugs but gagging heavily when I clipped the anchors was unpleasant.
This route is up in a cave about 100' above and to the right of the Wall of Confusion. An easy scramble up the small gully just right of Fear and Loathing, III gets you up there. This route is the first one to the right of the obvious, steep, dirty-looking crack route "Resin Rose"
Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor with carabiners. A couple of quick links on this anchor would be helpful to straighten out the carabiners.
Nov 23, 2011
Points for "fowl-smelling". Very funny. Deduct points for misspelling Makalu, Handren's generic name for this one which refers to both a well-known (back when) brand of boot, as well as the fifth highest mountain in the world. Thus endeth storytime.