Making Trad Draws
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Making trad draws and looking to get some input on components. Looking for a "no nose" style of biner like the BD Hoodwire but not sure which sling to use. Any ideas/comments would be great. Thanks! |
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Been thinking about those but still not sure on using dyneema for something that takes a dynamic load. I know nylon is wider and heavier but isn't it more suited for the task? I also acknowledge that most trad draws use dyneema. If you've seen the DMM videos on nylon vs spectra/dyneema, you'll know why I'm asking haha |
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I'm a fan of the Blue Water Titan slings. |
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Check out the Misty Mountain Nylon slings for a good "alternative" to the dyneema they are skinnier then all the other nylon that I have found. I tend to run about half and half skinny dyneema and the misty mountain skinny nylon, that way I get the best of both worlds. My normal rack of draws and slings for trad routes. |
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plus one for the blue water titan slings |
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Dyneema's no good if the rest of the system is static, but when using slings for trad climbing you have the dynamic rope in the system. Dyneema slings seem to be preferred due to lower bulk and weight- just avoid taking static falls on them (ie without rope) |
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I think you're misunderstanding the implications of those DMM tests. The reason dyneema slings failed so miserably was that they were being subjected to high fall factor drop tests without a rope or any other dynamic elements in the system. For clipping pro with a dynamic rope, dyneema is a fine choice. Just don't use it as a personal tether, climb a couple of feet above your anchor and pitch. The right tool in the right application... |
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I love the Wild Country helium biners... they're incredibly light, and have a hooded nose similar to the hoodwire but cleaner looking in my opinion. |
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Kyle Napierkowski wrote:Dyneema's no good if the rest of the system is static, but when using slings for trad climbing you have the dynamic rope in the system. Dyneema slings seem to be preferred due to lower bulk and weight- just avoid taking static falls on them (ie without rope)+1 And also very important, don't tie or girth-hitch them. Otherwise they're light and strong. I use them for my alpine draws. |
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Kyle Napierkowski wrote:Dyneema's no good if the rest of the system is static, but when using slings for trad climbing you have the dynamic rope in the system. Dyneema slings seem to be preferred due to lower bulk and weight- just avoid taking static falls on them (ie without rope)Makes perfect sense. Thanks for all the help everyone! |
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Depends on what you plan to do and what your budget is. I personally have and recommend the blue water titan slings like a few others above. They are less bulky than normal nylon and they wear great, I think they're good for just about everything. They are a spectra/nylon blend. They are not, however, lighter than plain old nylon - a 24" blue water titan weighs 42g, a 60cm BD 18mm nylon is 36g, and the nylon will last a long time. |
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Allen Corneau wrote:I'm a fan of the Blue Water Titan slings. They're a good balance between weight/bulk savings over full nylon slings and the knot-ability/durability over the mostly-Dyneema slings.I also like the Blue Water Titan. Nothing wrong with the Dyneema, but honestly, the shoelace size of it makes me nervous (this is irrational, it's plenty strong). I like the balance of the Blue Water Titan: not as bulky as 18mm nylon, but not as skimpy as 10mm Dyneema. That said, I do love Dyneema for hero loops or the like: any palce where the reduced bulk is key. As for the carabiner, I love me some Petzl Spirit. I can't get enough of them: they just feel so awesome when you use them (they are heavy by today's standards, though, and I haven't had opportunity to use the new, lighter version). I really, really like key lock carabiners. I have grown to hate that notch on non-key lock biners. |
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Might check out the Wild Country Heliums too - great wire gates. |
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I love my mammut slings! they're great, perfectly strong, and the lightest out there! |
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I do most of my trad climbing in Seneca and the Gunks, where the nature most of the routes wander and have roofs. With that in mind, I wind up extending most of my placements. |
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Being cheap and a little paranoid about dynema, I go with Trango ultra-tape for my slings. They are a blend of nylon & dynema. They are smaller than nylon slings and lighter @ 27 grams. Been using them for two years now and they've held up real well. |
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Maybe this is obvious but I just want to double check. Would you not use a dyneema sling to top rope a classic 2 bolt sport pitch if you plan to tie two limiting knots around your master point as to not shock load a bolt in a failure? No knots in dyneema ever is what I have heard but feel like I have seen that happen a bunch. |
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NickO wrote:Maybe this is obvious but I just want to double check. Would you not use a dyneema sling to top rope a classic 2 bolt sport pitch if you plan to tie two limiting knots around your master point as to not shock load a bolt in a failure? No knots in dyneema ever is what I have heard but feel like I have seen that happen a bunch. ThanksYes; I pretty much stick to all nylon slings for this, usually hand knotted double length (48") that I keep on me for bailing/unforeseen stuff. Sometimes I'll use a quad pre-tied from 7mm if I know I'll mostly be top roping on good bolts. youtube.com/watch?v=Dhs6EQt… |
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The "no knots in dyneema" is said with regards to scenarios where the sling would see large static forces. It is FINE to use a dyneema sling with limiter knots for toproping. It is similarly fine to use a dyneema sling to build an anchor on a multipitch - just make sure you are never tied in to the anchor directly with another piece of dyneema. That's the rope+clove hitch is for. |
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uhm, whats a trad draw versus any other draw? |
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Ah, trad draws vs. tripled slings, the semantic debacle of our time. |