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making climbing gear?
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By Aric Datesman
Apr 7, 2013
The there's also the question of how close you live to actual climbing.... Without a nearby after-work crag, making gear is a nice alternative to watching tv.

FLAG
By Bryan Ferguson
From Castle Rock
Apr 7, 2013
Marvin and Greg scoping Crow's Heads Spires - snow...
Leo Paik wrote:
FWIW, one of the limitations back in the days with machine nuts chocks was that they were symmetric. A big improvement was that they made asymmetrics which gave you 3 size options. I'm into making things by hand (v-thread hooks, fishing poles, lures, arrows, etc.) , but the question comes to me as if you have the free time, would you rather climb or make equipment?


Recalling my reading, back in the day of gathering nuts along the railroads tracks on the approaches to the gritstone quarries, the fellas realized early on that giving the nuts a taper, like modern nuts have, improved performance - they shaped them in the 60's.

FLAG
By mr. mango
May 5, 2013
north wash
ChaseLeoncini wrote:
buy gear

Another insightful addition from our friend chase.

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By Mike Brady
From Oregon City, OR
Oct 13, 2014
Slashface goodness taken by RTM
Just curious if the OP ever made the gear he was hoping to.

I made some nuts awhile ago, but it wasn't economically advantageous as the stainless cable, ferrule and swaging is more expensive than a nut off the shelf. It was fun though.

I had begun working on making a cam for a final project in school but I wouldn't have had the time to finish it and the cost/time makes it pointless except for the fun of it. Someone had commented on making the lobes on a lathe, while this is feasible it is very time consuming as the lobes are a logarithmic spiral and would need to be carefully offset with multiple setups on a manual lathe or a CNC lathe would be needed. It would be much easier to make on a CNC mill as other operations need to happen on the face of the lobe anyways.

As far as any concerns about the safety of making your own gear, obviously gear makers have been engineering, reiterating and testing their for designs a few decades now so they have their shit together but they don't posses a magic wand that provides bomb proof gear. As long as some research is done and nothing is done half asked there is no reason why someone couldn't make their own gear.

With that said I would be amazed if someone could produce a cam (or even a nut) that is comparable to anything off the shelf for the same price.

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By Dylan B.
Oct 13, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
mattm wrote:
While you certainly COULD make your own nut, I ask WHY? What possible upside is there to a drilled out steel hex nut vs a commercially available option? I am in no way saying don't innovate - please do - but drilling out a nut rather than buying one is like making a fishing pole out of a stick.


Because it's fun and satisfying to make things on your own that work, and work well. Whether or not it can be done better/faster/lighter/prettier by someone with more money than you, the making of a thing is its own reward.

Aric Datesman wrote:
Once upon a time the US was a country of innovators and tinkerers. Now we're mindless consumers of offshore crap, scared of even changing a lightbulb. It's sad, really sad.


Baloney mythologizing. For every Ben Franklin and Thomas Edison there were 10,000 other people who never made or innovated a thing in their lives. That was true then and it's true now. You didn't learn about them in your triumphalist history classes because they were ordinary people, like most of us.

FLAG
By Mike Brady
From Oregon City, OR
Oct 14, 2014
Slashface goodness taken by RTM
Dylan - I would have to agree, maybe a touch less fervently, with your assessment of Arik's statement. I work in the manufacturing field so I may be a bit biased, but I feel their is no shortage of innovators in our country, I would actually argue that there are more now then there has ever been. Space X, JPL, Tesla,etc., are housing the giants of our time and I feel that for everyone of them there are many more in the general public doing the same thing on a smaller/different scale. With the proliferation of information over the internet the DIY scene has been made extremely accessible to most anyone that has basic mechanical aptitude.

In Arik's defense our manufacturing sector has suffered quite a bit from a lack of education/inspiration steering young talent into the manufacturing fields. And you will never catch me arguing that we don't buy to much imported goods.

FLAG


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