This is a good route with good protection in the right spots. The rock is a bit sharp and tape on the hands would be wise for those with thin skin.
Find Consternation and The Chop and look about 2 meters to the right of the wide crack of 'The Chop
P1: A fingers-to-thin-hands shallow crack and flare starts from the ground and works upward past several stopper and cam placements (to 2"). This section is a bit insecure as the crack flares in many places and is too small for good jams, but very good gear is available if you are willing to place it from insecure stances.
The crack briefly ends right below an overlapping flake that runs up and right from the original crack. From this stance (2" cam on a sling), reach out and left "Make the Cut" into a second crack on the same face (2.5"-3" wide) and a solid hand-jam there and swing through to that crack. Place protection (hand sized cam, with sling) and make a few moves up that crack for a body length or two until it ends. When that one ends, move left again, "Making the Cut" left once more into 'The Chop' into the top of that OW. If you brought one very large cam, place it here with a sling again, before topping out on that crack to a ledge and belay on gear.
P2: Continue up and right to get into a splitter through a bright yellow tower. The climbing there is surprisingly awkward or gymnastic and goes from thin hands through a wide pod (your big cam again, if you brought one) and up to a nice hand crack to top out.
To descend, climb back down the back of that tower (4 meters, 5.6?), protecting with a #2 Camalot if desired, and then scramble out as for other climbs in this area such as Consternation.
The route starts on the ledge as for The Chop and Consternation. It starts up a fingers-to-thin-hands shallow crack and flare, starting just a few meters to the right of the gaping crack of The Chop.
This route protects with a set of cams from small to 3" plus a few sm/med stoppers and an optional large cam (I did not have that).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2013
P.S. This has also been linked through the upper section on TR. Above the initial crack, undercling the overlap and jam a flaring pod at the end of your reach, then get funky (as in 5.11+/12-) to sag onto that and reach much higher to a second flaring jam and pull into a second crack, a few meters above the overlap. Ride this crack until it ends... above gear at a very very thin 5.11 mantle onto a moderate slab to the top. A fall could be pretty ugly and out of control, backwards and up-side down from above gear if you blow either crux on lead.