This is a decent pitch with a bit of spice that climbs harder than it looks.
It has a couple cruxes, one near the ground and one high up (if you go to the Only the Strong anchors). Be prepared for a stiff start that actually may favor shorter folks. The middle section includes some more moderate but interesting terrain. Go right at the 3rd bolt. The 5.11 crux comes just before the 4th bolt. Stay right. If necessary, you can A1 the 1st & 4th bolts.
This is just right of the big dihedral, Body English.
4 bolts, small cams, an attentive belayer. Optional ~#3 Camalot before the 1st bolt. 2 bolt anchor if you go right to the Only the Strong anchors (which are hidden from view) or gear if you go left and finish with Make It Go.
Placing some gear after the crux.
Above the lower crux at a nice stance.
|By Doug Redosh|
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13
The guidebook shows it going L at the third bolt. One could presumably place some gear behind the flake going that way. We TR'ed it from the anchors above to the R, which are visible from the ground, but not when one is traversing to these anchors from 2/3's up Body English, as Leo did. Going this way, up and R, is definitely solid 5.11. Moving past the 1st bolt is 10c or harder IMHO.
|By Mark Roth|
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Pulling the move at the first bolt is harder than 9 but not too much harder... then there is another 9 move by the 2nd bolt. After that, no move is harder than 5.7 (if you go the right way).