Major Tom  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 75 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  John Steiger, Allen Sanderson, July 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  John Steiger on Aug 16, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Major Tom is the attractive two-part arête to the left of Le Rap et Tap, offering excellent rock and some of the best exposure in BCC. The first part is protected by three bolts up to a ledge. The second part begins by stepping right off the ledge to avoid a severely undercut section of the arête, and then moving back left past the fourth bolt to regain the arête above the undercut. A small cam with a runner protects the move to clip the fourth bolt. Above, one more bolt protects exciting climbing (take a deep breath) to the large belay ledge shared with Rear-View Mirrors, Le Rap, and Wealth of Nations. Really a sport route, but calling it trad to keep off the draws-only crowd.

Location 

Approach as for Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations. Major Tom can be led from either the ledge and pine tree at the base of those routes (consider using longish draws on the first three bolts) or, less comfortably, from a small footstance and cams near the base of the arête (which would require some exposed third or fourth classing to reach).

Protection 

Five draws for the bolts, and a few finger-size and smaller cams and long runner. Rap from a bolt and slings around a flake.