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Major Wall
Routes Sorted
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Banana Peel S 
Bananas on Acid S 
Bats out of Hell S 
Bon Bon T 
Buttress Fly S 
Cactus Practice S 
Captain Blueberry S 
Chris's Route (name will change) S 
Demon, The S 
Devil's Plaything S 
Hurt Me Not S 
Juckets & Bugs S 
Liberace's Anus S 
Limp Traddy S 
Major Chingadera S 
Major Major S 
Major Raspberry S 
Milo Mindblender S 
Pimp Caddy S 
Pimp Daddy S 
Pinche Wey S 
Prickly Proctologist S 
She Can Bolt S 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 

Major Chingadera 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Roberts
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 10, 2011

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Description 

Start up the left side of major wall on jugs through the first two bolts. After the second bolt make a tricky move to get established in the scoop. Clip the third bolt and start on the engaging run-out to the anchors. The anchors aren't visible until you are almost to them, but they are directly above the third bolt.

Some guides mention the old obscure route "Chingadera" starting in this area and taking a hard right after the second bolt and sharing the finish with "Pinche Verga".

Location 

Furthest route left on Major Wall.

Protection 

3 Bolts to Anchors. There is one manky bolt above the third as well if you want to clip something else, but isn't necessary.


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By socorroscott
From: socorro, nm
Oct 26, 2011

i also put up this route at the same time. i think i called it major chingadera. i thought it was around .10aish. i have been contemplating if i need to put another bolt at the top...any suggestions?
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2011

Thanks Scott, It seems like this would be pretty spicy for a 10- leader, but then again most of the easier routes on major wall are pretty spicy for a beginning leader.