Mainstreet 

This climb is a grade III? Wow!

Hmmm...... personally speaking, offwidths DO take me a long time....... maybe Grade III is close to accurate.

Regardless of how long it takes you Jake, it still is not a grade III. A grade three typically consists of multiple pitches,up to seven I believe. No single pitch climb could ever be a grade III.However Mainstreet is a long & difficult pitch.

You'd think I'd have learned my lesson my now, but apparently not -- sarcasm doesn't transmit well in e-mails or internet postings. I was merely poking fun at my own lack of grace and skill on off-widths, and generally agree with Edward's assessment on the grading issue for Mainstreet. I'd probably consider a Grade III a little broader, though, so as to include "all day" routes like Epinephrine at Red Rocks. The 14 pitches there definitely add up to more than Grade II, but I'm not sure I'd consider it Grade IV.

Didn't mean to bust your chops their Jake.I find these grading systems to be very inconsistent, so I always like to ask other climbers view on this matter.

Just to set the record straight, the Grade III I assigned to this one pitch climb when I posted it was a typo.

It's really a Grade IV.

Why not make it a grade VII?

Wow, a wide crack that's actually fun! This would be a great intro to 5.10 OW. There are 3 bolts on this climb... one at the start, one at the end of the crux, and one in the upper section (I find the presence of these bolts to be curious considering this is well protected with modern OW gear). 2 #5 camalots and 1 #3 bigbro worked great as the rack for this climb... anything smaller is extra weight. The crux is as well protected as OW gets, but you should be a solid at 5.8 chimneys since you have to run it out for long stretches on the upper part.

As fun and classic as OW gets.

The bolts are for an adjacent face route, the Kopischka classic Neverending Story. Just convenient that you can reach some of them from the offwidth.

The couple bolts on Mainstreet were put there prior to big gear I believe. The first bolt used to be a hideous 1/4 that I replaced in 1997. Sure you can get gear in nearby but people still clipped it so I replaced it. The upper bolt is too far away to be part of Neverending Story and has been there a while.

Don't forget to use elbow protection (neoprene pads or strectch tape). I ground crystals into my elbow, chickenwinging and it became infected. I finished on Kopischka, an exciting face climb. Actually, i bailed out of the unprotected chimney onto the bolted climb, which was quite hard after offwidth exhaustion.

This is a great off-width experience. Don't let the second bolt on the right side seduce you into starting left side in. I tried this fell out, went right side in and felt is was significantly easier. Combined with Mr. Rockbiter, you could not ask for two more different pitches-four stars!

FA: Mark Hesse 1972

Hey Wade:
When you replaced that first bolt, (thanks for that), did you give any thought to moving it to the left wall? I asked because I aways perform an awkward clip from right-side in and then turn around to left-side in which I feel more comfortable doing AFTER I clip the bolt.
Mike.

No, I actually just pulled the 1/4"er and redrilled the hole to accomodate a 3/8th inch. I think that the bolt is unecessary but if people are gonna clip it, might as well be bomber.

A little less intense than what can be typically be expected from Vedauwoo 5.10. Lots of good rests. Hardest part is being comfortable with the gear. Awesome climb.

“It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.”
- Confucius

"Unless you are paying by the minute" - some dude in the red light district.

I was wondering what 5.10 offwidth felt like at Vedauwoo, so I led this today. Great rests along the way. I sure wish I had saved my #6 Camalot for after the last bolt. I had to run it all the way to the chains on a fully tipped out #5 that was basically worthless. Bigbros or 2 #6s would have been nice. Oh the joys of on-sight climbing.

Classic route indeed.

Lot's of fun. Took 3 #6 pieces 1 #4 Bigbro and small stopper (or purple/green Camalot would work). Also took two #5 Camalots (new school Black Diamond....what were they thinking?) DID NOT PLACE #5 Camalots.

Amazing route! My favorite OW at Vedauwoo so far. And easier than it looks. R side in at the start. Switch later. Surprising that it's lead up on so little gear, but the 3 bolts help. We used a 0.75 Camalot to start, 2x #6 Camalot, 1x #4 Bigbro, shoulder slings, and draws for the bolts. New #5 Camalot didn't fit. 60m doesn't reach the ground, but there is a bolted anchor halfway up the slab, so easy to get off with 2 raps.