Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 320 ft (97 m), 3 pitches
FA: Cummins/Imbrie in 1977 (but see comments, someone earlier?)
Page Views: 5,169 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jonathan S on Dec 6, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A classic ice climb of the Northeast, burly and challenging.

Commonly done in 3 pitches.

Climb the low angle apron at the bottom which steepens to WI3 and possibly WI4 depending on line chosen.  May be easier to tuck in behind the money pitch on the climbers' left side where protection can be had for the belayer from falling ice on the next lead.  This can be nearly a full rope length.

Second pitch is the real deal.  Steep, sustained pillar climbing which goes on for a good portion of a rope length.  A pull out climbers' right provides a sheltered belay for the final pitch.

Last pitch starts with a bang through steep, icicle laden terrain to lower angle ice as the top is reached.

An early start is highly recommended.  The climb has a near due south aspect and gobbles up any sun.  The rock is dark and any ice near it will be more than likely dubious or rotten from daytime heat.  Catch this unicorn on a sustained, cold day.

A day on this ice won't soon be forgotten.

Location Suggest change

On the larger face of Kineo, when the ice sets in well.

Protection Suggest change

Screws and some trad gear

Photos

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