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Bradbury Mt. State Park
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Cornerstone, The 
Lodestone, The 
Lower Boulder 
Southern Boulder Patch 
Vulcan Area  

Bradbury Mt. State Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 43.9002, -70.1795 Map
Page Views: 10,302. Good page?   
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Dec 11, 2007

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newly cleaned line

Description 

Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.

Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.

Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.


Getting There 

Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs. better directions coming later...


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bradbury Mt. State Park:
Heaven   V3-4 PG13     Boulder, 20 feet   The Cornerstone
Rugosa   V6     Boulder   The Cornerstone
Sub Zero    V6 PG13     Boulder, 18 feet   The Cornerstone
Diamond Bollocks   V8     Boulder, 20 feet   The Lodestone
Purgatory    V8     Boulder, 16 feet   The Cornerstone
The Loaf   V9-10     Boulder, 14 feet   The Cornerstone
Browse More Classics in Bradbury Mt. State Park

Featured Route For Bradbury Mt. State Park
A video still from a recent (2010) ascent, some 20 years after the first.

Heaven V3-4 PG13  ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Cornerstone
Heaven climbs the very obvious and aesthetic southwest corner of the Cornerstone. After a crimpy and sharp start, the climbing eases up considerably with a tall, slightly balancy, but very fun finish. This was the very first problem put up here, requiring quite a lot of cleaning. It was done in a pre-pad era so it was TR-ed first, then soloed. With modern pads, a ground-up ascent is pretty reasonable...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Comments on Bradbury Mt. State Park Add Comment
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By Kris McNeill
Jun 10, 2009

Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 23, 2010

Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so.

By John Agee
Jul 28, 2010

Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.

What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc.

By CaptainMo
Administrator
Mar 8, 2013

Great after class spot for Bates students... sharp but fun and some real gems!