Quaint boulders nestled among forests and furry woodland creatures.
Heinously sharp, large grain granite boulders- crystals are the dominant feature, also look for sloping aretes, crimps, and the occasional generation hold. Some highballs, lots of potential for new routes. really fun.
Shady and sunny, depends on aspect, etc.
Getting There
Exit 24 on I-295 in Maine. If coming from the North, take a left at the end of the ramp and follow obvious signs. better directions coming later...
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bradbury Mt. State Park:
Heaven climbs the very obvious and aesthetic southwest corner of the Cornerstone. After a crimpy and sharp start, the climbing eases up considerably with a tall, slightly balancy, but very fun finish. This was the very first problem put up here, requiring quite a lot of cleaning. It was done in a pre-pad era so it was TR-ed first, then soloed. With modern pads, a ground-up ascent is pretty reasonable...[more]Browse More Classics in ME
Does anybody have a map showing the routes on the boulders. I've been there climbing many times but I don't know which route is which. Even a hand drawn sketch would be cool!
Thanks for adding this area. I developed the majority of the problems here in the early 90s and will be posting photos of the boulders in the next week or so.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge! I've always wondered about the names and grades of these problems. Bradbury is a very special place, and it's awesome that the landowner is so chill about light use.
What about the problems on the Southwest side of the upper boulder? I really enjoy the highball straight up the middle with the crux being the vertical section down low, crystal pinching gaston, etc.