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Otter Cliffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Otter Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Capsized TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Terrace Exit T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stingray TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rogue Wave TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Crab Meat TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Plaque Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Brochure Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Out to Sea TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Staircase T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mermaid TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	State of Maine TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Barnacle Bait TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seabreeze T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mystic, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ocean Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Great Chimney, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Gallery, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gallery Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rock Lobster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Swing Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Great Chimney (aka Chockstone Chimney), The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Outer Face T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corner" ) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wonder Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Maine Central TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+
Unsorted Routes:
	Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
	Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+

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Elevation:	41 ft	12 m
GPS:	44.31194, -68.18919 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points. Tides change rapidly here, keep an eye on your time and check out the tide charts before you come.

Getting There

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you. Parking is extremely limited, consider parking outside the park and biking in or taking the shuttle service.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 143 ● In The Groove Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 209 ● The Great Chimney Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 85 ● Overhanging Corner Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 93 ● Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corne… Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 4 ● Rising Tide TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 167 ● The Flake Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 86 ● Wonderwall - Left TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 101 ● Wonder Wall - Right TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 121 ● Wonder Wall Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 123 ● Yellow Wall Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 114 ● Rock Lobster Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 115 ● Peak Performance Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 121 ● Guillotine Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 219 ● A Dare by the Sea Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● High Tide Girdle Traverse Trad