It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.
There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more]Browse More Classics in ME
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff.
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear.
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