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Acadia National Park

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Latitude: 44.3396  Longitude: -68.2581 
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Ocean front bouldering at Acadia.


Description 

Acadia National Park is visited by more than 2 million tourists every year. However this location is not visited for its rock (such as Yosemite), but for its reputation as the first place the sun touches in the USA (Cadillac Mtn.), and for its beautiful ocean views, as well as for ocean kayaking.

There are many areas in Acadia that make the long drive to get there more than worth it. Try to limit yourself to coming in the warm season (May-late September). Climbing by the ocean when it is cold out is a unpleasant experience.

NPS Site

The view.


Getting There 

Take I-95 in Maine, continue up to Bangor. From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Acadia National Park:
Wafer Step   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Precipice
Easy Corner   5.6     Trad, TR, 60 feet   Otter Cliffs
Overhanging Corner   5.6     Trad, TR, 50 feet   Otter Cliffs
Story of O   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   The Precipice
Old Town   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Precipice
Chlitlin Corner   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   The Precipice
Rock Lobster   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Otter Cliffs
Wonder Wall   5.9     TR, 50 feet   Otter Cliffs
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9     Trad, 50 feet   The Precipice
Return to Forever   5.9+     Trad, 95 feet   The Precipice
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Otter Cliffs
Connecticut Crack   5.11a     Trad, 70 feet   The Precipice
The Fish Scale   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Great Head : The Cavern
Dragon Fish   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Great Head : The Cavern
Browse More Classics in Acadia National Park

Featured Route For Acadia National Park
scary clip after the crux<br />Photo by Dave Sharratt

The Fish Scale 5.12d  ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Comments on Acadia National Park Add Comment
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By Pete eye
From: Palm Springs, CA
Aug 6, 2008

"Acadia- A climbers Guide" by Jeff Butterfield very handy.

By steve damboise
From: boulder colorado
Nov 21, 2008

I'm wondering if you guys or gals have started bolting routes here anywhere! on the island there's potential everywhere .( LETS PROGRESS THE SPORT !!!!! )

By Ian Dorko
Apr 22, 2009

steve, this: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/climbingregulations.ht>>>>> might explain why there isn't a lot of bolting on the island.