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Maine Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.1511, -69.1699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,047,275
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Logging truck and cloud cap over Mt. Katahdin


Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

Rock Climbing Photo: JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond.  Above c...
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.

Getting There 

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

563 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',80],['3 Stars',224],['2 Stars',159],['1 Star',51],['Bomb',4]

Classic Climbing Routes in Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maine:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000'   Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
Waterfall Gully   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 1000'   Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
Wafer Step   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
The Great Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow     Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II   Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
Story of O   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Old Town   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
The Armadillo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Grade IV   Katahdin : Chimney Pond ("South") Basi...
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
Green Mt. Breakdown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Chitlin's Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Great Escape   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Connecticut Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Ginseng Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Meltdown   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Shagg It    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Shagg Crag
The Ritual    5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 15 pitches, 20'   Shagg Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maine

Featured Route For Maine
Rock Climbing Photo: A video still from a recent (2010) ascent, some 20...

Heaven V3-4 6A+ PG13  ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Cornerstone
Heaven climbs the very obvious and aesthetic southwest corner of the Cornerstone. After a crimpy and sharp start, the climbing eases up considerably with a tall, slightly balancy, but very fun finish. This was the very first problem put up here, requiring quite a lot of cleaning. It was done in a pre-pad era so it was TR-ed first, then soloed. With modern pads, a ground-up ascent is pretty reasonable...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Maine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coastal Maine
Coastal Maine
Rock Climbing Photo: Maine

Comments on Maine Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 5, 2015
By Ladd
May 10, 2007
For a sample of climbing in Maine check out the film Uncommon Ground
By justo
From: slc
Apr 23, 2009
Maine rocks!
By mAineAc
May 22, 2010
Where can I find that film Uncommon Ground? Your link does not work. I have tried searching with no luck.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 17, 2010
I am going to be in the Portland area the week of the 19th of July and would really appreciate the loan of a crashpad or two while I am there. If you can help, message me via MP.
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Apr 1, 2012
Does anyone have route info on Quoddy Head in Lubec? Could you please post?
By Sam Dudley
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 28, 2013
Hi, I am actually going to be in the Augusta area from May 1 - May 12 and would really love to explore some of the rock climbing in the area. I climb 10's and 11's mostly. I will have a car so I can get around. Please let me know if you want to hook up!
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Aug 14, 2013
Anyone have info on Monhegan that they feel like posting?
By S. Neoh
Aug 15, 2013
Monhegan Island?
I have visited it several times but never tried to do techincal rock climbing there.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :)
By S. Neoh
Aug 27, 2013
The sea cliffs on Monhegan Island are impressive to look at, topping out at perhaps 150 feet. But most of them look rather blocky, loose and precariously balanced. The bulk of the quality stuff would be on the main land rather than Monhegan Island (size = 1.5 mi x 0.5 mi).
That said it is a great place to unwind and marvel at the Milky Way on a clear night. Bring sensible shoes and a headlamp; there are no paved roads and fewer than 5 street lamps on the island.
By Philip Flint
Oct 5, 2015
Hey everyone, I'd like to take my wife out climbing in the Portland area. I want to lead sport routes for her. Nothing north of a 5.9 as this will be her first time. Any ideas where I could take her? Thanks in advance.

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