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Maine
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Acadia National Park 
Augusta bouldering  
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Grafton Notch State Park 
Great Ledges, The 
Hot Spot , camden hills 
Jockey Cap 
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Lion's Den 
Lisbon Falls Boulder 
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Mt. Sabbatus 
Nubble Lighthouse 
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Prosject 
Royal River Bouldering 
Shagg Crag 
Shell Pond 
Sugarloaf Region Boulders  
Tumble Down Dick Mt. 
Tumble Down Mt. 
Twitchell Pond  

Maine 


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Location: 45.1511, -69.1699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 765,711
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
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Logging truck and cloud cap over Mt. Katahdin

Description 

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond.  Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.


Getting There 

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here


452 Total Routes


['4 Stars',76],['3 Stars',179],['2 Stars',133],['1 Star',43],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',42],['5.7',42],['5.8',33],['5.9',43],['5.10',63],['5.11',54],['5.12',46],['5.13',14],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',12],['V2-3',48],['V4-5',19],['V6-7',16],['V8-9',10],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maine:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000'   Katahdin
Halfway Prince   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Belgrade Lakes Bouldering : Mt Philips
Wafer Step   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Great Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Story of O   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Armadillo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Grade IV   Katahdin
Chlitlin Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Old Town   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Bartleby   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
Return to Forever   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 95'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Green Mt. Breakdown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Great Escape   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Connecticut Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Ginseng Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Meltdown   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Shagg It    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Shagg Crag
Browse More Classics in Maine

Featured Route For Maine
Starting up head arete

Head Arete 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13  ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Left wall
If you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs. But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch. In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach. It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet.At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middl...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 10, 2007

For a sample of climbing in Maine check out the film Uncommon Ground

By justo
From: slc
Apr 23, 2009

Maine rocks!

By mAineAc
May 22, 2010

Where can I find that film Uncommon Ground? Your link does not work. I have tried searching with no luck.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 17, 2010

I am going to be in the Portland area the week of the 19th of July and would really appreciate the loan of a crashpad or two while I am there. If you can help, message me via MP.

By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Apr 1, 2012

Does anyone have route info on Quoddy Head in Lubec? Could you please post?

By Sam Dudley
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 28, 2013

Hi, I am actually going to be in the Augusta area from May 1 - May 12 and would really love to explore some of the rock climbing in the area. I climb 10's and 11's mostly. I will have a car so I can get around. Please let me know if you want to hook up!
Sam

By Rich Brereton
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 14, 2013

Anyone have info on Monhegan that they feel like posting?

By S. Neoh
Aug 15, 2013

Monhegan Island?
I have visited it several times but never tried to do techincal rock climbing there.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013

Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :)

By S. Neoh
Aug 27, 2013

The sea cliffs on Monhegan Island are impressive to look at, topping out at perhaps 150 feet. But most of them look rather blocky, loose and precariously balanced. The bulk of the quality stuff would be on the main land rather than Monhegan Island (size = 1.5 mi x 0.5 mi).
That said it is a great place to unwind and marvel at the Milky Way on a clear night. Bring sensible shoes and a headlamp; there are no paved roads and fewer than 5 street lamps on the island.