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Maine

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Latitude: 45.1511  Longitude: -69.1699 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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Description 

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Sep 9, 2007


Getting There 

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maine:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   Katahdin
Wafer Step   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Overhanging Corner   5.6     Trad, TR, 50 feet   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Story of O   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Chlitlin Corner   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
The Armadillo   5.7     Trad, Grade IV   Katahdin
Old Town   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Rock Lobster   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Recollections of Pacifica   5.9     Trad, 50 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Wonder Wall   5.9     TR, 50 feet   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Return to Forever   5.9+     Trad, 95 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Great Escape   5.10d     Sport   Shagg Crag
Connecticut Crack   5.11a     Trad, 70 feet   Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Cell Block D   5.12a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Two Shaved Heads   5.12b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Ginseng Route   5.12c     Sport   Shagg Crag
Meltdown   5.12c/d     Sport   Shagg Crag
Shagg It    5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Shagg Crag
Browse More Classics in Maine

Featured Route For Maine
scary clip after the crux<br />Photo by Dave Sharratt

The Fish Scale 5.12d  ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Comments on Maine Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 10, 2007

For a sample of climbing in Maine check out the film Uncommon Ground

By justo
From: slc
Apr 23, 2009

Maine rocks!