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Main Wall

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Circus Midget 
Holy Crap 
Original Route 
Perro De La Guerra 
Pyramid, The 

Main Wall 


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Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Sep 2, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Tick Rock rappel from Flying Guillotine/Holy Crap ...

Description 

Shady in the afternoon and great venue for after work climbing especially when its hot elsewhere.

Sandstone, with a variety of crack and face routes (usually a combo of each). Many variations possible. Over a dozen routes on the small, compact crag.

Very short approach. Some helpful trail work (some real effort!) in progress. Nice flat staging area at the base could easily accomodate a small group or two.

Small amount of parking at the head of the approach trail. Be sure to pull completely off the road (more room on the downhill side from the trail location).


Getting There 

PCH then head north on Sunset BLVD. At the first traffic light, Palisades, turn left. At around 1.5 miles the crag is barely visible on the left, poking out over the top of the trees near the base.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
The Pyramid   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport   
Circus Midget   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport   
Perro De La Guerra   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Start of Holy Crap

Holy Crap 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Main Wall
A fun, plumb bob of a route which ascends a neat line up improbable steepness.Climb lower angle blocky and kind of tricky slab and shallow cracks to first bolt below roof with crack splitting face above. Climb up through roof, staying to the right of the prow to left. Step left where convenient (joining Flying Guillotine), and, traverse up the bolt protected face on reachy, spaced out jugs on the steep wall. Climb up through shallow roof (easier than it looks!) and either step left to finish ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Main Wall
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By Sean Denny
From: Portland
May 6, 2012

Does anyone know what the story is with the line of bolts directly left of Perro De La Guerra? I don't think it's listed in the guidebook.
It looks hard and I've never seen anyone on it.

By Jeff constine
Aug 5, 2013

Its called Yahoo Predator 8a or 13b/R i put it up. Unrepeated..No chipped or modified holds..If you fall off going for the 4th bolt you can break you ankles on the ledge while falling sideways.. good luck..