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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
6-fingered Man, The 
99 Red Balloons 
As You Wish 
Butler Route 
Fire Swamp, The 
Giant Killer, The 
Once Were Warriors 
Pejos Route 
Planet of the Apes 
Prince Humperdink 
Princess Buttercup 
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 
Unknown Crack 
Unknown Crack Route 
Unknown Face Route 

Main Wall 


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Elevation: 6,400'
Page Views: 5,391
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: The routes of the Main Wall of Gallows Edge. Topo ...
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Description 

The Main Wall at Gallows Edge has the largest concentration of routes at Gallows. 8 bolted routes and a few crack lines are found here.

Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons discovered this wall, and solo'd most of the 1st ascents.


Getting There 

Follow directions for accessing Gallows Edge.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Princess Buttercup   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Sport, 32'   
Pejos Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 45'   
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   
Once Were Warriors   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
99 Red Balloons   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
The Fire Swamp   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Planet of the Apes   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Cody (6) cleaning gear, approaching the dreaded ROUS! Feb 2009.

R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top. Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance, solid hand jam and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly! The well-protected mini-roof move i...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By Minesh Bacrania
Sep 3, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

A number of the steel 'biners have gone missing from the anchors. Some routes have one left, some routes have none. Maybe they were stolen by the same idiots who left their cigarette butts all over the base of the main wall?

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 9, 2008

I was the one that originally placed the "fixed" biners on the chains at Gallows last year. I used a mixture of steel hardware store clips and aluminum carabiners, just using what I had around my gear room. Certainly steel biners are best but more expensive. Aluminum biners wear much faster (especially if people are routinely TRing through them rather than using their own draws to TRing until the last person lowers) so perhaps those aluminum biners wore out to the point of being scary and someone removed them on account of safety. I'm cool with that.
What amazes me are climbers like the one Chris was climbing with who are either too thick-skulled or too cheap to realize that biners on chains aren't just there because someone forgot them or someone has loads of money and leaves biners each time they lower and that it's OK to remove them.
I plan to purchase some steel biners and fix them to the chains with bailing wire at Gallows Edge. Certainly the bailing wire is not a real deterrent to those that are determined to score "booty" biners but at least the wire will signal to those that are clueless that the biners are meant to be there for the safety and convenience of everyone that climbs the route.
Actually, I was recently given a box of new hardware for anchor replacement as a part of the Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) and perhaps Gallows is a good candidate for these. What do you think?