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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.
Description The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.
Getting There Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.
Routes Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated. Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish (04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt. Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon (13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Featured Route For Main Wall
Loose Cannon 5.13a NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate, which is why there is a chain draw for bailing off of if in the middle if you can't do the crux. Starts right of Peter's route and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the chain draw. At least 2 solutions to the crux exist. One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful. Climb to the top of the wall from here, work out right u... [more] Browse More Classics in NM
By DisturbingThePeace From: Albuquerque, NM Jun 11, 2008
| Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated. 00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse 01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab 02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds 03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish 04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram?? 05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt. 06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip 07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof 08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall 09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route 10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland 11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux 12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon 13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult 14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall 15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump 16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors 17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much. |
By George Perkins From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 2, 2010
| Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes. Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there. Thank James if you see him. |
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