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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 
Brave Little Toaster 
Castle Greyskull 
Catapult, The 
Couch Warrior 
Death Drives a Stick 
Dragon's Lair 
Evil Alchemist 
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) 
Gangland 
Loose Cannon 
Meltdown 
Moat Jump 
Moat Pump 
Phrenology 
Rogue Warrior 
Siege Warfare 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Wall 


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Elevation: 6,219'
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.

Description 

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.


Routes 

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
(04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot
Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall
Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur
Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
(13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump
Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Moat Jump   5.12a     Sport   
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)   5.12b     Sport, 80 feet   
Gangland   5.12b     Sport, 65 feet   
Moat Pump   5.12c     Sport, 75 feet   
Meltdown   5.12c     Sport, 30 feet   
Siege Warfare   5.12c/d     Sport   
Evil Alchemist   5.13a     Sport   
Loose Cannon   5.13a     Sport   
The Catapult   5.13b     Sport   
Death Drives a Stick   5.13     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
someone pulling the crux of loose cannon / catapult

Loose Cannon 5.13a  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Maybe the best line on the wall, marred only by the fact that the crux is particularly desperate, which is why there is a chain draw for bailing off of if in the middle if you can't do the crux. Starts right of Peter's route and works up and right to a few crimpy and technical moves right to deposit you underneath the chain draw. At least 2 solutions to the crux exist. One very powerful, one very crimpy and still powerful. Climb to the top of the wall from here, work out right u...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2008

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram??
05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall
09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland
11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors
17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 2, 2010

Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.

Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there. Thank James if you see him.