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 ADVANCED
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 
Brave Little Toaster S 
Castle Greyskull 
Catapult, The S 
Couch Warrior S 
Death Drives a Stick S 
Dragon's Lair S 
Evil Alchemist S 
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 
Gangland S 
Loose Cannon S 
Meltdown S 
Moat Jump S 
Moat Pump S 
Phrenology S 
Rogue Warrior S 
Siege Warfare S 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Wall 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.

Description 

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.


Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.


Routes 

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
(04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot
Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall
Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur
Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
(13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump
Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',8],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Moat Jump   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Gangland   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 65'   
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Meltdown   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 30'   
Moat Pump   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 75'   
Siege Warfare   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Dragon's Lair   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Evil Alchemist   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Loose Cannon   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
The Catapult   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport   
Death Drives a Stick   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Chris D. moves over the bulge crux as Nick T. belays.

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare! Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2008

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram??
05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall
09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland
11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors
17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 2, 2010

Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.

Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there.