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 ADVANCED
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall  


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Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Kama Sutra   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lightspeed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wings of Desire   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
MLK   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Aerial Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
The Wave.  The anchor at the start is at the end of the first pitch of Mystic Mile.  The anchor at the top is shared with Eight Miles High.  The route climbs an overhanging wall via an undercling lieback; way harder than 10a.

The Wave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Start from the anchor atop the first pitch of Mystic Mile. Traverse right and down to a huge, left-facing dihedral. Clip the first bolt, and power up and right via an undercling/lieback. Finish at an anchor shared with Eight Miles High.I don't claim to world class climber, but compared to the other 10a's at Sleeping Beauty, all of which I had success on, this route seems way harder. My partner regularly climbs hard 11 and had to hang on this thing...I got completely shu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful anchor above a narrow ledge, 40 feet above the final 2-ring anchor on Wings of Desire.  This anchor is useful if one wishes to finish Kama Sutra, Tree of Life or Wings of Desire at the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />To rappel from this anchor with a single  200-foot rope, it is (I think) necessary to rap to the anchors at the tops of Wings of Desire or Kama Sutra, then down again to the 2-ring anchor atop the first pitch of Kama Sutra.  Then one more time (about 70 feet) to Ledge Two. <br /> <br />NOTE: It is not possible (with a 200-foot rope) to rappel all the way to the first 2-ring anchor on Kama Sutra and make Ledge Two in just 2 raps.  It takes 3 raps to reach Ledge 2 from this anchor at the top of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

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