Main Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  15,029. Good page?    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

The Classics

Featured Route For Main Wall

Immaculate Deception 5.10c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall

This is a one-move climb with decent 5.9 climbing below and above the crux, and a hard direct start that should be posted separately. Rossiter calls the crux overhang 11a. For someone of my height (6' 2") it's much easier but tricky to figure it out. Not sure how to rate this. It might be 10a for me. Might be 11a if you're shorter.Start: Just right of the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side is a thin, somewhat flared crack with several bolts leading to an overhang. This is the direct start. Ross...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...