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The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wings of Desire 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Bender 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
MLK 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Main Wall
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
I'm giving this route two stars because of the really cool arete move, despite the fact that the climbing to that point is easy and a little dirty, and despite the totally unnecessary first 8 bolts. The first 8 bolts are all next to good and easily-placed gear on easy climbing (maybe one 5.8 move). Why are these cracks bolted? The bolt on the arete, the bolt above that, and the anchors are the only bolts needed. Other routes on this wall (e.g., Arcanum) do not have bolts where there is good gear...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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