Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 7,514 ft
GPS: 39.99654, -105.41685
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,824 total · 113/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There Suggest change

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

16 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Walk on the Wide Side
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Kama Sutra
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Eight Miles High
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Mystic Mile
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 48
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Lightspeed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Wings of Desire
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 33
Mind Bender
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
MLK
Trad, Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0
 10
Aerial Boundaries
Sport, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walk on the Wide Side
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kama Sutra
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Eight Miles High
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mystic Mile
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid
 48
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lightspeed
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wings of Desire
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mind Bender
 33
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
MLK
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Aerial Boundaries
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0 Sport, Aid
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments