Login with Facebook
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,436
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006

60° | 42°

62° | 39°

64° | 43°

68° | 46°

68° | 45°
Columbus Day

64° | 44°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>


The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.


A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Kama Sutra   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lightspeed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wings of Desire   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
MLK   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Aerial Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
The final headwall on the second pitch of Arcanum....

Arcanum 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Arcanum is a "mixed" route, some trad, some bolts. The crux section is short but steep, hands and fingers. The bolts are where they are needed--gear would be non-existent (pitch 2) or small and funky (bottom and top of pitch 1). The rock on the first pitch is a little ugly, but solid and reasonably clean.Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against the wall. This is right of the flake of Eight Miles High/Mind Bender.Pitch 1: Climb a moderat...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!