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L to R R to L Alpha
The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wings of Desire 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Bender 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
MLK 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Main Wall
The Tree of Life 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
This route is an interesting hybrid that links the first 40 feet of Kama Sutra to the last 50 feet of Wings of Desire. Jam through the crux roof on KS and climb to a stance beneath the offwidth section. Stem right, clip a lone bolt beneath a roof, then make difficult moves into a previously unclimbed crack that runs parallel to KS, maybe 10 feet to the right. Have 1-inch gear at the ready. Jam straight up the crack to a point very near KS, then follow the crack system...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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