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The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wings of Desire 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Bender 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
MLK 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Main Wall
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Approach: See Richard Rossiter's site for the approach to Sleeping Beauty. At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's Kama Sutra, 10d. 10' left of that are bolts through the overhang at some obvious knobs. This is Lightspeed.The route: The roof is the cr...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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