Main Squeeze  M4-5

1,001 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV Consensus:  M4-5 [details] FA:  ? Chris Erickson, Tim Hallinan New Route:  Yes Season:  winter Submitted By:  tim on Nov 24, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The chimney system, starting in the shaded dihedra...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Probably 6 pitches total if all pitches are roped. We roped up for 3 pitches, all squeeze chimney climbing P1 M4, P2 and 3 M1-2ish, P4 M4+, P5 M4+, P6 M2ish. P1 starts in the large dihedral at the head of the cirque and takes the left branch. The dihedral starts M2-3 and ends in a heel toe squeeze chimney M4, full 60 meter pitch. Pitches 2 and 3 wander mostly on snow with occasional headwalls to the base of the dark ugly chimney visible from the base M2? P4 is strenuous chimneying with small gear and hooks on the left wall M4+. P5 starts at the base of the next obvious dark and slightly overhanging squeeze chimney, there was a wee bit of ice here for us, but not screw worthy M4+. P4 and 5 may combine. P6 is easy mixed to obvious scrambling terrain up a short gully M2? From the top of the gully the descent couloir to sky pond is impossible to miss, head north. Some unreal chimney/squeeze on this route if you like that sort of thing.

Location 

ENE face of Powell Peak at the far end of the cirque separating Thatchtop and Arrowhead. Obvious chimney system splitting the westernmost part of the cirque. Descend a couloir dropping North to Sky Pond.

Protection 

Single rack to a #4, no big gear required despite the amount of chimney, offwidth. Twin or double ropes handy for all the pack hauling. No fixed gear found on our ascent, KBs and Bugaboos come in handy.

Photos of Main Squeeze Slideshow

Add Photo

First pitch dihedral M4-ish, lots of heel/toe for ...	P1 gets wide in the upper dihedral.	Easy mixed on P2-3.
Chris Erickson starting P4, M4+.	Tim Hallinan getting into P5 squeeze chimney, M4+.	Bad picture of the route from a distance (shutter ...
The gnar on p5.