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Main Rock, as the name suggests, is the largest formation at Angel Creek, home to the largest concentration of routes. It also boasts the longest routes in the area as well. There are climbs on all aspects of the rock, with the majority (and the best) on the eastern side. The granite ranges from solid on most of the routes to crystalline and crumbly on others. There are two routes generally used to access the bolts and anchors at the top of the formation - South Ridge (5.6) and Access Route (5.5), both of which can be led with a light rack.
Not only is Main Rock the largest block of granite in the area, it's also the farthest from the trail head. For the easiest hike, follow the trail to the elevated boardwalk section and continue up around First Rock, the Teenage Area, and Pumpmaster. You'll approach Main Rock from the northeast side. Another option is to take the faint trail that branches to the left just before the boardwalk section. This trail leads directly to Main Rock, but it's steeper and generally wetter.
7 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Rock:
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Main Rock
South Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : ... : Main Rock
South Ridge starts from a grass ledge and climbs a low angled face to a block. It is one of two routes used to access the anchors on top of Main Rock. The protection is sparse, and generally pretty poor, and the rock is loose and dirty in some areas. From the ledge, climb up low angle slabs to a block. Climb around the right side of the block to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge to a prominent pinnacle. We ended up rapping from the pinnacle, but you can also choose to continue to the summit...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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