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 ADVANCED
Main Rock

Select Route:
Big Tuna S 
Corner Route S,TR 
Courtney S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Hot Tuna S 
Left Slab S,TR 
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 
Pelicans S,TR 
Sex Porpoises S 
Sharky's Machine TR 
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 
Wet Dreams S 

Main Rock  


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Location: 37.88859, -122.63268 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,995
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 14, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: From the approach, about halfway down the trail. T...

Description 

This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.

There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.

There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.

This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.

Getting There 

From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.

The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Rock:
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Left Slab   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pelicans   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wet Dreams   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Main Rock

Featured Route For Main Rock
Heading into the crux.

Sex Porpoises 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Main Rock
This is the rightmost route on the southwest face of the main rock. To access this route, you can walk around the right side of the main rock at low tide, but at high tide it's probably best to find a path down the slippery section on the south side of the rock from the main junction that you would take to get to the top of the main rock. This route has a little bit of everything. Powerful pulls, balancy sections, roof sections and near vertical bouldering sections. The route is pretty susta...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Main Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall
Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall
Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
Friend max on the easy part of the rock.

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