The crags surrounding the Main Parking Lot host hundreds of climbers from every level of climbing every weekend. Nestled along the hillside within a few feet are a few established boulder problems such as the classic roof problem Escape from Reality (V9).
Escape From Reality is a classic for the very strong and talented but there is a lot of more entry level bouldering in this area. The rock is typically sharp due to the lack of climbing on it but hosts a number of great routes. There is a lot of potential still to be done and documented here.
I personally suggest Friend of the Devil (V3) and Wallace's Roof (V2+) as two moderate classics in this area.
I am filling in the route info as best as I know, I have not been able to find any information on this area and use my best judgement on posting FA's, but please if you notice something that is wrong let myself know and I will fix it accordingly. If something is incorrect I apologize.
Pull into the main parking lot and look up hill towards the crags, and you will see the boulders. I will break down the sections more and give directions to specific sections on that page.
This is the boulder problem hidden away in a cave just above the main parking lot. Start sitting way back in the cave and crimp your way to the large underclings 3/4 of the way out. Match the last undercling and use a tiny crimp intermediate to throw big for the lip of the cave, then keep tight and work up to the obvious finishing 'spike.' Unfortunately several holds have broken over the past few years and some of the moves (particularly at the start) aren't as nice as they used to be. Still a g...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
My camera is currently broken and will be buying a new one soon, at that time there will be pictures posted for this area.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 30, 2011
It is great you are getting the info in here, Matt. There really are tons of great problems scattered around and sometimes hidden just a short walk from the usual spots. I wish I could remember more to help you out, but I didn't usually write anything down or get around to naming most of the ones I did . Don't worry about giving them new names or FAs. I'll correct the ones that I notice that ring a bell. One of the things about Rumney bouldering is that you can clean a route off spic and span and ten years later somebody else will have the fun of rediscovering it .
Thanks Mark, any and all help will be appreciated. I really think Rumney bouldering has a lot more to give, and there is a lot of cool potential to discover and rediscover. I am really excited to keep exploring!