Main North Face  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  4,000' Page Views:  1,263. Good page?    Administrators:  saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  andjoely on Sep 29, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 79° | 61° 72° | 59° 73° | 52° 72° | 37° 70° | 41°

2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Topo of the route

Description 

One of the best summer crags in the SE before 2PM when it comes into the sun. The cliff doesn't get any sun in winter. Most of the routes here go through a low roof then up excellent slightly less than vertical granite for the rest of the ride. The cliff receives an oddly low amount of traffic for a cliff this good which is probably due to a combination of the difficulty of the routes (5.11+ and up) and the long approach (almost as long as laurel knob's).

Getting There 

Either hike below the south face of the courthouse or hike to the east end of the catwalk ledge. In either case, Hike up to the ridgeline east of the devil's courthouse and follow the trail as it winds its way through huckleberry bushes then down a short slab, then follow the trail as it jogs a little left then a little right near a boulder and then down the obvious to follow steep section of the trail through rhodos to the base of the cliff.

The Classics

Featured Route For Main North Face

Curt Johnson Memorial Route 5.12b  NC : Whiteside Mountain : ... : Main North Face

An amazing roof crack bars the way to some nice moderate face climbing. Though it says 5 pitches it can easily be done in 3 or 4 if you tolerate some rope drag. Jim Corbett aided the roof crack many years ago and Shannon Stegg finished the route with Wayne and I recently. The route is named after Curt Johnson, a climber who died of cancer a couple years ago. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC