Main Line 5.8 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Dick Williams, Dave Craft, Claude Suhl, 1965 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 |
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Mike Amato halfway up the second pitch. The crux n...
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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A fun and varied route on the far left end of the Nears; well worth the walk.
Main Line is almost at the furthest extent of the Nears. Look for a big pillar leaning against the cliff, with a crack running up its right-facing aspect; this is the route Outsiders. Main Line starts about 50' right of this pillar, below a large, left-facing corner, and about 25' right of Mac-Reppy - the fixed sling at the roof of MacReppy should also be obvious.
P1: Climb up to the left-facing corner, and eventually make your way around the arete to your right. Make face moves up the line of least resistance to a stance below the roofs. From here, figure your way up and left (or perhaps down, up, left and left) to the horizontals above. Place some pro to protect the second through the crux moves, then walk 15' right to a 2-bolt rap anchor. 90'
P2: Move right from the belay, and climb straight up past a notch in an overhang (crux, hard-to-place pro). Angle up right through steep rock to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Descent: Rap 40' from slings on a tree back to the bolt-and-chain anchor atop the first pitch. From here, rap 90' to the ground.
Protection Standard Rack. The crux notch on the second pitch can be hard to protect well.
By John Peterson
Feb 23, 2006
| I've never had much problem with the pro on the 2nd pitch myself - the gear is all there if you can reach it and hang to put it in. A couple of small stoppers works fine for me. And you have good cams down at your feet so it's not too bad.
A great route. |
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2006
| This is a SCWEETT route. I found the pro numerous and straight forward on the second pitch. The first pitch crux was on thin pro. |
By Spiro
Oct 10, 2008
rating: 5.7+ PG13
| love the route, felt the first pitch was harder then the second. worth the walk. |
By John Ely
From: DC
Jul 16, 2009
| On the second pitch, it is possible to stick a 3 camalot or similar in the notch of the roof; it sets strangely but I think it would hold. If one does the first pitch crux by traversing left, be careful of the finger flake hold. It seems loose if you torque out on it. Great Climb! |
By JSH
Administrator
May 3, 2010
| The first pitch can be a bit heady; it's definitely PG, though I don't know that I would go so far as to call it PG-13, with a good number of moves well beyond pro that is sometimes strenuous to place, and is often out of sight of the belayer. It's also quite easy to add some serious rope drag! |
By doligo
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Heady is the right word for P1, I would have been happier with a set of smaller stoppers or even micros. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 22, 2010
| On the first pitch I wasted a bunch of time trying to place RP's, only to kick them out when I climbed passed. |
By BrianRH
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Such a classic! The crux of the first pitch was a bit wet but manageable.
I'd say the second pitch protection is PG, but placing pro for the crux of the second pitch can be a bit strenuous. If you head there (via Bayards trail), this end of the cliff stays pretty empty these days thanks to the closure to the right. |
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