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Elevation: 7,900 ft
GPS: 37.7891, -118.9141
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,773 total · 321/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jul 3, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Page Updates (admin only)

Description Suggest change

This area plays host to some of the best sections of rock at Clark Canyon. As the name suggests, the island has climbing on all sides, ranging from short pocket pulling at The Alcove, to long sustained climbs at Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff.

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split, take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island.

41 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Island Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
● Stegosaurus
Sport
Alcove
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
● Peanut Brittle
Sport
Alcove
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
● Pull My Finger
Sport 3 pitches
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● Court Martial
Sport
N Island
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
● Dr Jeckyll
Sport
Alcove
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
● Pocket Pool
Sport
Alcove
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
● Get Your Dicken's Cider
Sport
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 23
● Funny Bone
Sport
Alcove
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
● Funky Yet Spunky
Sport
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
● Unknown
Sport
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
● Driller Instinct
Sport
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
● Tickled Pink
Sport
Alcove
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
● Jihad
Sport
Holy Wars Cliff
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
● Maltese Falcon
Sport
Maltese Falcon Cliff
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
● Dirty Dancing
Sport
Holy Wars Cliff
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Stegosaurus Alcove
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Peanut Brittle Alcove
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Pull My Finger Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
● Court Martial N Island
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Dr Jeckyll Alcove
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Pocket Pool Alcove
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Get Your Dicken's Cider Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Funny Bone Alcove
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
● Funky Yet Spunky Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
 26
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Unknown Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Driller Instinct Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
 80
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Tickled Pink Alcove
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Jihad Holy Wars Cliff
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Maltese Falcon Maltese Falcon Cliff
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Dirty Dancing Holy Wars Cliff
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Island »

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Photos

The Sierras from Clark Canyon - Bloody Couloir is easy to see.
The Sierras from Clark Canyon - Bloody Couloir…
 7
The Main Island seen from the approach path.
The Main Island seen from the approach path.
 1

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