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Main Island

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Alcove, The 
Holy Wars Cliff 
Maltese Falcon Cliff 
North Island 
Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff 

Main Island  

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Elevation: 7,900'
Location: 37.7891, -118.9141 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,679
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 4, 2008


71° | 41°

67° | 36°

64° | 36°

72° | 44°
Labor Day

75° | 46°
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The Sierras from Clark Canyon - Bloody Couloir is ...


This area plays host to some of the best sections of rock at Clark Canyon. As the name suggests, the island has climbing on all sides, ranging from short pocket pulling at The Alcove, to long sustained climbs at Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff.

Getting There 

From the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split, take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Island:
Peanut Brittle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   The Alcove
Pull My Finger   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 190'   Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Funky Yet Spunky   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Driller Instinct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Jihad   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Holy Wars Cliff
Maltese Falcon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Maltese Falcon Cliff
Dirty Dancing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Holy Wars Cliff
Browse More Classics in Main Island

Featured Route For Main Island
Skyline of the route from Potato Patch. Good views...

Pull My Finger 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
The crux is pulling the 3 intimidating bulges 160 feet off the ground. The route is well protected though, and offers great climbing. You can do the route in 3 separate pitches if you are worried about rope drag, but doing it one long rope stretcher isn't a problem (make sure you have 60m or longer 50m will be to short) ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Main Island Slideshow Add Photo
The Main Island seen from the approach path.
BETA PHOTO: The Main Island seen from the approach path.

Comments on Main Island Add Comment
Show which comments
By weisseseis
Oct 25, 2014
The directions here are a little confusing:

"From the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split..."

The split is before the boulder.

"... take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island."

Left and right should be switched here. Area 13 is to the right of the Main Island.

Unless I'm really confused...
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