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Main Gully 

WI2-3

   
Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 290'
Consensus: WI2-3 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: Ben Annibali on Feb 23, 2010

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Matt Linnane leading up the Center Headwall of Mai...

Description 

This is probably the most reliable and popular ice climbing area at the Narrows. From the parking lot facing the cliff walk left about 100 yards. You will see a gully with ice coming down to the road. You will also be able to see a little bit of the head wall. The amphitheater has many different climbs. The Main Gully climb goes right up the center of the amphitheater. And consistently the last pitch is called the Center Head Wall.

Pitch 1: (WI2 160 ft) From the road climb up to chains on the left where you can belay, you can also use a tree. The chains are kinda tucked in under a little roof.

Pitch 2: (WI2 130 ft) Continue up the gully until you see a big leaning rap tree with slings around it to the left. To the right will be chain anchors.

Pitch 3: (WI3 45 ft) This goes right up the middle of the head wall. Half way up it will look like the ice form almost a corner.

There are many different variations for the final pitch. Pick which ever one you want.

Many People solo these two pitches. When you rap make sure you are throwing ropes or knocking down ice chunks on top of them.

Location 

Facing the cliff walk left about 100 yards. You will be able to see an obvious gully leading up away from the road.

Protection 

Standard Ice Rack


Photos of Main Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Ross Purnell getting ready to climb the Center Hea...
Ross Purnell getting ready to climb the Center Hea...

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By brian ivins
Nov 6, 2010

"Many People solo these two pitches. When you rap make sure you are throwing ropes or knocking down ice chunks on top of them."

That's some really great ADVICE.

How about: Use your common mountain sense. This is a pristine area which now is being overrun by newbies who need to take an ice climbing clinic up in the Adirondacks or some other Ice festival venue, before venturing out. THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER AREA

And as far as parking: USE THE DESIGNATED LOT. OR PARK AT THE INN DOWN THE ROAD and walk (god forbid)

THE AREA UNDERNEATH THE MAIN FLOW IS NOT FOR PARKING!

thank you