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Main Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	All that and a Bag of Chips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Arms Race T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ass Master T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blackout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Boogie Wonderland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cabbages and Kings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M5
	Cepphus Grylle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Changing Corner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crystal Therapy T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Drop the Mental T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Easy Way Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fifth Element T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fine Line Between Fear and Flying S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying Cabbages S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Frank Sinatra T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gabe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Gabe Direct T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Good Country Lovin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hakuna Matata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Here Come the Shit Hawks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Homer Erectus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hysteria S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c WI4
	Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
	Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ledge Dweller S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	LSTB Program T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Mid-Atlantic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Middle of a Choss Pile, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nautical Noggin T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Noggin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One Fine Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Operation Recuperation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Over Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Paging Don Kiedick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Permanent Vacation TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Pog Mahoe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pucker Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Redemption T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Remembrance Day T C2
	Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Screaming Life S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Sea World T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Second Skin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Serpentine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Sledgehammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Something Heinous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Spray Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wet Chalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whaleback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

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Elevation:	32 ft
GPS:	47.6999, -52.6984 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Unknown Unknown on Apr 18, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	David Bruneau Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The largest part of Flatrock containing the vast majority of climbs including the longer routes and a few two pitch climbs towards the northern end. The area receives morning sun and the temperature can change dramatically without the sun if the wind is blowing.

A unique feature of the crag is that the boulders at the bottom of the routes shift around from season to season. This can result in unusually high (or low) first bolts on routes. The motion of the boulders also has the effect of rounding off the holds at the bottom of the routes, resulting in a crux at the beginning of many of the routes. A stick clip is mandatory here, and don't hesitate to stick clip the second bolt if ground fall seems likely when climbing past the first.

While a scramble from the trail above exists which can be used to set topropes on routes near Yellow Fever, there is some loose rock present which could be dislodged onto groups below. It is recommended to climb Candy (5.7 sport) to set toprope anchors on routes from MC Hammer to Hysteria, and to climb Spray Down (5.7+ sport) to reach anchors from Flaccid to Seascape.

Getting There

Park past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking. Hike uphill to Wade's lane, which is followed uphill to a trail which is past all the houses, as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail, do not turn onto the main trail but cross straight over it past some boulders to a hidden trail down the other side.

About halfway down, turn right about 10m before a bolted traverse (original trail, still usable). The trail descends a grassy slope with switchbacks, ending on a scree path. You can use the hard rock to then travel south to Spanky’s or north to Mainface.

Note that parking is no longer permitted on Wade's lane, and climbers are requested to park just past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking.

85 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 M5 26 ● Candy Sport, Mixed, Ice
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 22 ● Spray Down Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Wet Chalk Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Hakuna Matata Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 16 ● Yellow Fever Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Last Chance Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Creationism Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 9 ● Iron Hand Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 6 ● Operation Recuperation Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 10 ● MC Hammer Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 12 ● Hysteria Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 15 ● Easy Company Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Sledgehammer Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 12 ● Maggie Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Fine Line Between Fear and Flying Sport