Login with Facebook
Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 
Heavy Weather T 
Ladybug S 
Peregrination T 
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 

Main Face  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 831
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012

65° | 39°

57° | 39°

54° | 36°

52° | 34°

57° | 41°
Columbus Day

65° | 47°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • For access issues: please review cragvt.org

  • Description 

    This is the prominent, tallest (300') face in the center of Double Upper Cliff. The left hand margin is defined by a vegetated gully system known as "Vegetable Garden" (a fine winter mixed route). The right margin is marked by a series of bushy left facing corners extending to the top of the cliff. The center bottomless left facing corner is the route Erotic Nut Selections or "Captain's Crack".

    Getting There 

    Follow the preston pond trail to the herd path leading right at the base of the cliff. Take this trail up and directly to the base of the main wall.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 7.8 miles from here

    5 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
    Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
    Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
    Heavy Weather   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Ladybug   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
    Browse More Classics in Main Face

    Featured Route For Main Face
    Above the crux overhang on Peregrination

    Peregrination 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  VT : Bolton Area : ... : Main Face
    P1 - 120' 5.10c 5.7 PG13 - Look for a bolt about 20' up juggy, dirty face climbing. Follow three bolts up to a 5.8 slab section and a shallow ledge with a juggy flake. Clip a bolt and pull a roof onto hollow holds. Beware of a loose quartz hold at the roof. Move up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt and continue trending up and left on 5.6/7 terrain to the big roof. Make an exposed clip (slightly runout) over the roof and pull the roof to a stance.Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

    Comments on Main Face Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By june m
    From: elmore ,vt
    Oct 17, 2014
    I believe the original name was exotic nut selection, before someone decided to retrobolt, one of which came out in my hand , but the upper bolts are good
    Beyond the Guidebook:
    The Definitive Climbing Resource
    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run
    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps
    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes
    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!