At 1825 feet, the Main Dome is the largest single feature at Enchanted Rock, home to the largest concentration of routes, and sees the most traffic (both climbers and hikers). It dominates the parking area, and is the first dome you see when approaching along Highway 965 from Llano. There is a small bouldering area on the front side (southeastern side) of the dome, but the majority of the climbs are found in Echo Canyon (between the Main Dome and Little Dome) and on the Backside. Echo Canyon in home to great single pitch areas such as the Orange Peel, Motorboat Rock, and the Triple Cracks areas. The Backside contains the longest climbs in the park, and consists of predominately bolted slab routes. Some of the areas such as Cave-In, Smorgasbord, and the Central Latitudes are pretty obscure and require a little exploration to find. Consequently they offer the most solitude. The Echo Canyon and Backside areas can get crowded, especially on weekends.
To reach the climbing areas on the main dome, follow the park road to a turn around with a gazebo at the end. From the gazebo, take the stairs down to the creek, and follow the obvious trail that leads toward the dome. Approximately a third of the way up the dome, the trail splits: the summit trail branches right while the Echo Canyon Trail goes left. Follow the Echo Canyon trail over the saddle between the two domes and down a rocky draw. There are several large boulders and a small interpretive board with a map of the park at the base of the draw. Two climbers’ trails (marked with colored arrowheads) branch off from the right side of the boulders and lead to the Echo Canyon areas: the green trails heads up the Triple Cracks area while the purple trail leads to Throne Rock, Orange Peel, and Motorboat. To reach the Backside, follow the trail through the boulders that loops around the entire dome. Use the blue trail to access the News Wall and the yellow trail to access the Cheap Wine Wall and Devils Slide area. The trail continues to Freshman Mountain and Buzzards Roost.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Dome:
Featured Route For Main Dome
Milk Jugs V3 TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : The Dairy Farm / Frog Pond ...
Sit start with hands matched on the obvious mouth jug. A tricky heel hook / mantle balancing act will pull you through the crux. The rock is pretty good, but you may pull off a crystal or two while heel hooking....[more] Browse More Classics in TX