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Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beach Break S 
Blood and Bolts S 
Climbing Club Route S 
Cold Feet S 
Detached Retina S 
Double Vision S 
Hannukah Valentine S 
Harvester S 
Hermes Horror Show S 
Look Ma, No Hands S 
One for Carl S 
Paradise S 
Poacher's Pinch S 
Point Break S 
Shady Business S 
Sully's Route S 
Todos Santos S 

Main Crag 


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Location: 45.5961, -110.5598 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,692
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: grk10vq on Mar 25, 2012
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left side of main crag
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Description 

Home to about twenty sport routes, the Main Crag is one of the more heavily traveled areas at Allenspur and a great spot to get started. A crag with a high concentration of routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range, you'll find a large variety of climbing, mostly under 5.11, with a few 5.12's. A full set of draws is recommended as are a couple of runners. Most routes require on average, about ten draws.

A nice 20 minute approach gets you to this crag, enjoy morning shade and afternoon sun. A great area with classic routes and quality lines. Beware of loose rock!


Getting There 

From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag. Once there, follow the trail left (aiming north) and walk for about three hundred feet. The Main Crag is the next crag you encounter.


Climbing Season


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Climbing Club Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Main Crag

Featured Route For Main Crag
Topo for Sully's Route.  2 Bolt anchor at the top.  You can continue on to the upper climbs from this anchor set.

Sully's Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Main Crag
P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang. P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left....[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

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