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DescriptionA relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag. Getting ThereAt 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Mosquito Burrito 5.8 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105 feet
Chihuahua Enchilada 5.10d R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Meteor Rhoadblock 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch
Next to Nothing 5.12b Sport, 2 pitches, 60 feet
Shiny Dog 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch
Amazing Face 5.12c Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Main Crag
Take the Termites Bowling 5.11c CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This route is the farthest right in the gully which separates the two separate rock formations at the bowling alley. There are three routes here that are really close together. One of them should of been left as a toprope. Climb up on good golds to a seam, lieback and an interesting crux. The bolts stay on your left for most of the climb. They seem to be a little far to the left for the bottom, but that might be due to loose rock....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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