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This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.
At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Mosquito Burrito 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Chihuahua Enchilada 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Gutter Ball 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Bloodstone 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Meteor Rhoadblock 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Next to Nothing 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Super Bon Bon 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Amazing Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 2 pitches
Shiny Dog 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Main Crag
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This is as great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the lef...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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