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Main Climbing Areas

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Car Wall 
David's Castle (backside) 
David's Castle Wall 
Fortress, The 
Middle Finger (backside) 
Middle Finger Wall 
Nuke the Whales Backside 
Nuke the Whales Wall  
Pinky Pillar (backside) 
Pinky Pillar Wall 
Practice Wall 
Red Wall 
Resurgence Walls 
Rising Sun Wall 
Two Pitch Wall 
Wrestling Wall 

Main Climbing Areas 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: EricD on Feb 1, 2008
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West Face - First Wall, Two Pitch Wall, Pinky Pill...

Description 

These are the areas accessible from Linwood Road and where the vast majority of climbs are located. These areas include the Practice Wall, David's Castle, Red Wall, and the Fortress area.


Getting There 

From I-85, take Exit 13 and go Left off the ramp. Continue through the light and the road will become Archie Whitesides Rd. (SR 1122). Follow this for roughly 2 miles until it dead-ends into Linwood Rd. Go Left on Linwood Rd. for about 0.1 mile and make a Right into the parking lot. Here you'll find an information kiosk and restrooms.

From the parking lot, follow the Backside Trail about a mile up a steep gravel trail. Please stay on the trail as land managers have put up a fence and signs to encourage people to do just that. The trail follows a wooden staircase that ends at an overlook and the top of the Practice Wall. This is also (usually) the end for most hikers, so people will congregate here and remark on the view of distant Charlotte (and engage climbers in a discussion of the dangers of climbing and the mental stability of those that climb).

The hike is about 20 minutes or less. There is a summit ridge that travels northeast from the Practice Wall which leads to the rest of the other areas (sans Hidden Wall).


181 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',47],['2 Stars',80],['1 Star',47],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',35],['5.7',13],['5.8',35],['5.9',19],['5.10',51],['5.11',14],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Climbing Areas:
Caterpillar   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   David's Castle Wall
Overhung and Underrated   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, TR   Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall
Overhang Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   David's Castle (backside)
Ooga Chocka   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   David's Castle (backside)
Pleasant Dreams   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Middle Finger (backside)
Holy Guacamole   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall
Opinionated   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Red Wall
The Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Practice Wall
Scramble My Feedback   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Red Wall
Rawlhide   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Resurgence Walls : Rawlhide Wall
Burn Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Practice Wall
Dewey Used To Love It   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall
Burn Signals   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, TR   Car Wall
Master Beta   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Red Wall
Electra   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   David's Castle Wall
The Gimp   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Red Wall
Energy Czar   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   David's Castle Wall
Desperately Seeking Juggage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Red Wall
Welcome to Crowders   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Red Wall
Fashion Direct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Red Wall
Browse More Classics in Main Climbing Areas

Featured Route For Main Climbing Areas
Cleaned up and fun. - butcher of baghdad

Butcher of Baghdad 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  NC : Crowders Mountain : ... : David's Castle Wall
'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option. (5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor i...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Main Climbing Areas Slideshow Add Photo
East Face - Davids Castle Wall, Rising Sun Wall, Red Wall, New Policy Wall, Plane Above Your Head Wall, Moscow Wall,  Trundlasaurus Wall, Rawlhide Wall <br /> <br />Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina <br /> <br />
East Face - Davids Castle Wall, Rising Sun Wall, R...
Comments on Main Climbing Areas Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 26, 2011

Do we really need to have areas duplicated? It seems messy and with the new sorting feature I feel that everything can be resolved and that the pics can be updated to the old current areas.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Dec 6, 2011

I agree. Completely unnecessary to have duplicate routes, especially when the person posting them hasn't even climbing some of the stuff. Anyone can copy the guide, but I believe these postings are meant to get additional beta that the guide does not offer. I will continue to post in the original listings. It is not difficult to add to the already listed routes and areas if you have additional info that is pertinent. The Resurgance Wall is probably the only thing that needs a change/breakdown into the individual walls in that area.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Dec 7, 2011

Unfortunately, the sorting feature is only available to the area administrators and area author. Neither of the area administrators actually lives in NC and so Eddie Ramirez created the duplicate areas/routes so that he could then sort them. I agree this a very inelegant solution. Ideally, a local climber would have admin rights over this crag and simply combine the new content into the existing areas and then sort the routes.
Tom, Eddie has actually climbed nearly all the stuff here. Including a rare redpoint of Fashion and Skunkpie.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Dec 13, 2011

My comment about not climbing everything was when I noticed Instant Karma the 10d trad climb not having any ticks or stars by the author. He barely writes a description, definitely not one that would warrant any additional beta. People visiting this site are looking for more information than the guide book like gear beta, detailed route descriptions, personal feelings, etc... I don't see that additional information in most of his write-ups. Sorting would be low on the list if the route descriptions were more detailed. Leave the climbs unsorted or he should talk to John, saxfiend about getting authorship to the area. Once that is the case he can sort them all, but it shouldn't be so he can make them all his own. I have already contacted sax about this before I commented previously. Not to put down Eddy, because much of his photos and topos are great, but this is just a cluster f'. Its up to the admins to fix a site problem as far as the sorting goes.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Dec 13, 2011

I agree that all the duplicated climbing areas here need to be erased. All the photos and topos can be integrated into the existing route pages. Resurgence area could use a face-lift. I disagree that sorting is low on the priority list. I think it is a very useful feature, especially for visiting climbers.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Dec 14, 2011

The reason I said sorting is low, is because the last section of the route authorship is location. Yes, knowing where the route is in reference to other climbs is important, which is already part of the location section, but this will only matter while you are at the cliff. The mobile application for routes is only a brand new feature and I believe not many people are using it yet. What I believe is paramount is the additional beta that helps someone decide whether or not to even get on the route. A description like "boulder problem on lead" and "standard NC rack" like Two-Step's does nothing to help make a critical decision over route safety, if it fits their style, or whether they have the specific gear for the route. Those things for someone like myself visiting or planning a trip to a new area I read more than where the climb is located. Having the guidebook in hand while at the cliff is how location is normally determined. Nothing like getting on a route to realize it would help to have doubles in the TCU size like Instant Karma. Lastly, the routes do not need numbers in their sidebar titles. Check out Sunken Treasure, which is an area that I completely sorted because I posted all the routes. I think Eddy is just new to mp and just didn't know any better. He started adding that content just a few weeks after joining.

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Dec 14, 2011

Now if we can only get an Admin's attention....

By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Jan 19, 2012

The Resurgence Area now has sub-areas for New Policy, Trundlasaurus, Plane, and Rawlhide. If you see anything missing please post up. I know of at least one route (Overhung and Underrated?) that I was unable to salvage.