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Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Capulin Classic 
Dark Crystal 
Easy, Vicar! 
Fists of Fury 
Free Pussy Riot 
Frisky Widow 
Garden Party 
Hallucinogen Roof 
History Lesson 
Killa Beez 
Less Than Zero 
Monkey Spank 
Nuclear Winter 
Orb Weaver 
Perk Up 
Pinch Point 
Pinky Mice 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy 
Rue Morgue Avenue 
Silver City 
Stairway to Heaven 
Sticky Fingers 
Tree Hugger 
Unnamed 2 
Unnamed 3 
Urban Fantasy 
Whole Lota Rosie 

Main Cliff 

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...


The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Holloween   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 70'   
Blockhead   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Monkey Spank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Squoze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
George heading out left of History Lesson on the Bad Idea Roof variation.

History Lesson 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Very, very cool. Fingers to a stance, then very thin face moves up a dihedral protected by micronuts. Originally stopped about 50 feet up. Later pushed up through the thin dihedral....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall.
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area. The most obvious line in the photo has anchors but hasn't been climbed clean yet.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
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