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The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.
Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.
51 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 70'
Easy, Vicar! 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Monkey Spank 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Physical 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Squoze 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Frisky Widow 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Capulin Classic 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Widowmaker 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For Main Cliff
History Lesson 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Very, very cool. Fingers to a stance, then very thin face moves up a dihedral protected by micronuts. Originally stopped about 50 feet up. Later pushed up through the thin dihedral....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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