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The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.
Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.
51 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 70'
Holloween 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 70'
Blockhead 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Monkey Spank 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Physical 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Squoze 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Frisky Widow 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Widowmaker 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For Main Cliff
Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Fingers to fat fingers to thin hands to a very short OW at the top. FA occurred in a rainstorm, and fingers liebacking on wet rock is a lot like trying to hold on to a hellbender. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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