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 ADVANCED
Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bandito T 
Bozeman Bullet T 
Crazy Horse S 
Desperado T,S 
Drifter T 
Geronimo T,S 
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 
Space Cowboy T 
Sundance T 
Tombstone T 
Warpath T 

Main Cliff  


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Page Views: 4,657
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
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Nearing the end of the sustained open book. Photo...

Description 

This is the main attraction at Deadwater. There are over 12 routes in this area with several variations. This is area has a southeast aspect, thus it receives good sun from mid to late morning until mid afternoon.

Getting There 

(Follow the directions described in the "Deadwater Area" description.)

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.3 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Bozeman Bullet   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Space Cowboy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Geronimo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Warpath   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Sundance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tombstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Desperado   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Bandito   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Contemplating the second crux on Crazy Horse, Dead...

Crazy Horse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Main Cliff
This is a high-quality line with two tricky, beta-intensive cruxes. It's easy to set up a toprope by leading Space Cowboy.Start in the Space Cowboy corner and go up a few feet, then traverse right to a good right-facing flake. Use a left-facing edge to gain a stance below the first roof. Over this (crux #1) and up to a second roof (crux #2) and on to a third roof. Break this using a crack (#0.5 Camalot), then up an easier face (runout, but easy) to a fixed tree anchor shared wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

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